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1、RevampingRevamping SkopjeSkopje 重塑斯科普里重塑斯科普里StonesStones ofof contentioncontention 竞争与炫示的雕塑竞争与炫示的雕塑MacedoniaMacedonia writeswrites a a newnew storystory forfor itsits capitalcapital 马其顿首都的新篇章马其顿首都的新篇章Jan 5th 2013 | SKOPJE | from the print editionColouring the future 描画未来IN 2010 a computer-generated
2、video of plans for the Macedonian capital was released to journalists.2010 年，一份电脑生成的视频规划被公布给记者，展示了马其顿首都未来的面貌。There were to be statues and monuments, new museums and civic buildings, a triumphal arch, even an eternal flame. After decades in hibernation Skopjes turbocharged planners seemed determined
3、that the city should make up for lost time. While Nikola Gruevski, the prime minister, was in office they planned to erect as much public art as some European capitals have put up in three centuries. Many assumed it was some sort of joke.视频规划里的首都，有无数雕塑和纪念碑，簇新的博物馆和市政大楼，壮丽辉煌的凯旋门， 以及熊熊不熄的火焰。规划者们野心勃勃，决意
4、一扫几十年来斯科普里的寂寂无名。尼古 拉.格鲁耶夫斯基任总理后，计划在首都建造和陈列的公共艺术作品数目之巨，达到了欧洲 一些首都三个世纪以来才缓慢积累起来的总量。起初，很多人认为这不过是痴人说梦而已。Three years later, the project is nearing completion and this corner of the Balkans is suffering the shock of the new. For this is more than just a city rejuvenation project. Almost every structure an
5、d statue is part of a wider ideological scheme to recast Macedonias identity. The heart is Skopjes central square, which for decades was a bleak and empty space. Now it has been crammed with statuary. There are 19th-century Macedonian heroes, the medieval Tsar Samuel (whom the Bulgarians angrily cla
6、im as their own) and Justinian, a Byzantine emperor who was born near Skopje. Nearby are two saints, Cyril and Methodius, the fathers of the Cyrillic alphabet. Centre-stage goes to a giant bronze Alexander the Great. He is encircled by warriors, who in turn are surrounded by a fountain, with music,
7、roaring lions and lights that change colour.然而三年之后，规划已近峻工。其影响和冲击席卷了这个位于巴尔干一隅的国家；因为它 已经远远超越了单纯城市复兴工程的范畴它是一幅意识形态宏图，旨在重塑马其顿身 份；几乎每一座建筑，每一尊雕塑都是这幅巨图的一个符号。其核心是斯科普里广场。该 地几十年来都荒凉破败，空旷无人，如今却雕塑林立，石碑处处。除了在此济济一堂的 19 世纪的马其顿英雄雕像外，还有中世纪的撒母尔（保加利亚人对此异常愤怒，称撒母尔属 于他们），生于斯科普里附近、后成为拜占庭皇帝的查士丁尼以及创制最早斯拉夫字母的 两位圣人，西里尔和迪乌斯。广场中
8、心，被武士雕塑众星拱月般环绕着的，是亚历山大大 帝的巨大青铜像。武士外围是音乐喷泉，怒狮塑像穿插其间，无数彩灯斑谰变幻。Ever since Macedonia became independent in 1991 Greece has fought a bitter diplomatic war with its northern neighbour. The new state, created from a former Yugoslav republic, it argued, was a thinly veiled territorial claim on its own north
9、ern region of Macedonia. Worse the Slav Macedonians, said the Greeks, were trying to steal their Hellenic history and culture.马其顿共和国 1991 年独立。自此之后，希腊与这位北部邻居外交倾轧不断。希腊称，这个 由前南斯拉夫共和国独立出来的新国家，对于马其顿北面希腊领土的觊觎之意，简直是司 马昭之心，路人皆知。更让人不齿的是，这帮斯拉夫-马其顿人居然肖想窃取希腊的历史与 文化。Until Greece blocked Macedonias accession to N
10、ATO in 2008, the government in Skopje never really took the history bait from Greece. Since then, however, the nationalist ideologues have become louder.对于希腊人后一个控诉，马其顿从未与之一较长短。然而，2008 年马其顿加入北约的意图 被希腊挫败之后，马其顿国内的民族主义呼声愈发高涨。Far from the Macedonians being an invented nation, as the Greeks argue, Vangel
11、Bozinovski, one of the architects working on Skopjes revamp says that it is in fact the Greek nation that was invented in the 19th century, and hence it is they who are stealing Macedonian history, including that of Alexander the Great. Just to make the point, a statue of Alexanders father, Philip o
12、f Macedon, has been erected and several of his mother, Olympia. A neoclassical archaeological museum (pictured) is nearing completion and a new foreign ministry with a classical temple-style portico has just been completed.Vangel Bozinovski 是参与重建斯科普里的建筑设计师。他说，希腊人一直指责马其顿是 个虚构的民族，事实上，希腊才是个在 19 世纪被虚构出来
13、的民族，并自此一直在盗用马其 顿的历史，包括亚历山大大帝。为了昭示这一点，他们还雕刻了一座亚历山大的父亲腓力 二世的塑像和好几座他母亲奥林匹娅斯的雕像。一座新古典主义风格的考古博物馆已近完 工。新建的外交部官邸则采用了古典圆形柱廊式的庙宇风格。Neoclassicism is not the only style being reused. Mr Bozinovski, who has built a “memorial house” to honour Mother Teresa, the Skopje-born nun who found fame caring for the dying
14、 in Kolkata, speaks of “eclecticism”. He is working on a plan for redeveloping a building which he says “is going to be real baroque”. In 1689 the then Ottoman city was torched by the Austrians. Mr Bozinovski claims that by building baroque he is only restoring this style to its rightful place; befo
15、re the fire, he says, Skopje was as baroque as Prague.新古典主义不是唯一被重新使用的建筑风格。Bozinovski 说这里的建筑风格是“兼收并蓄” 式的。他曾建造过一座特蕾莎修女的纪念堂，用以铭记这位生于斯科普里，在印度加尔各 答照顾垂死者的著名修女。目前，他正在着手重建一座巴洛克风格的建筑。在斯科普里还 属于土耳其时，它和布拉格一样充斥着巴洛克建筑，然而在 1689 年它被奥地利人付之一炬。 Bozinovski 称，巴洛克风格的建筑将使城市恢复到大火前的面貌。But the city also wants to reclaim its
16、more recent past. Close to the parliament building, on top of which new glass cupolas are now sprouting, is a war memorial for Macedonians killed fighting guerrillas from the countrys Albanian minority in 2001. Albanians make up at least a quarter of the population and many loathe what has been done to the capital. “I hate it,” says Lura Pollozhani, a young Macedonian-Albanian journalist. “I dont see me here.” By concentrating on anci
