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1、巴洛克时时期风风格服饰饰分析 Baroque style和谓谓巴洛克？巴洛克是指十六世纪矫饰纪矫饰 主义义以后到十 八世纪纪洛可可以前，这这期间间的欧洲文化。（17 世 纪）巴洛克（Baroque）原指一种形状不圆圆的 珍珠，后来却成为艺术为艺术 上的用词词，此字源于西 班牙语语及葡萄牙语语的有瑕疵的珍珠。作为为 形容词词，此字有俗丽丽凌乱之意。其实这实这 也 是对这对这 种华丽风华丽风 格的讽讽刺。被用来称呼公元一 六年歌剧诞剧诞 生到一七五年巴赫去世之间间的欧 洲艺术艺术 。这这一时时期，上接文艺艺复兴兴（1452年- 1600年），下接古典时时期、浪漫时时期。文化背景：17世纪纪的欧洲极
2、为动荡为动荡 ；以德国为战场为战场 ，几乎欧洲各国都参加的 举举世闻闻名的三十年战战争（16181648），正是这这个时时代的表征。荷 兰兰、英国步入资资本主义义社会，法国强化了中央集权权的专专制政体。在 动荡动荡 不安、民不聊生的环环境下，皇宫贵宫贵 族们们却过过着穷穷奢极欲的生活 ，追求豪华华、讲讲究排场场成了表现权势现权势 的社会性、政治性需求。大兴兴 土木建造宫宫殿和花园，举办举办 大型游园会、宴会。听音乐乐、现剧现剧 、赞赞 助艺术创艺术创 作。在这这个男性大显显身手的时时代，必然产产生以男性为为中心 的强有力的艺术风艺术风 格，这这就是巴罗罗克风风格。巴洛克时时期的服饰饰。巴洛克风
3、格巴洛克鼎盛时期富丽堂皇的凡尔赛宫起着引领时尚作用。按照法国当时的法令 ，宫廷里的人必须穿着最新款式。有关最新穿着方式的信息通过当时最初的杂志和通 过穿着最新款式的男女时装娃娃广泛传播。由此服装变换比以往任何时期都来得更快 。巴洛克时期的法国服装非常精美奢华。男装有些过分华美甚至过多的女忭化，常采 用花缎、天鹅绒和锦缎等华贵面料，并带有人量镶嵌线和刺绣。带有刺绣或花边修饰 的衬衫从胸部和腰部突出。从开缝的袖子可见装饰华美的衬衫，在宽人袖U的下面可 见层叠花边。1670年前后流行一种及膝长的合体外衣，采用锦缎面料，镶有金银线， 钉有金属纽扣。外衣里面是相同裁剪但稍短些的马甲。女装上衣在荷兰风格时
4、期曾 宽松舒适，但到法国风格到来之时再次勒紧。紧身的胸衣前下摆与腰裙相连。拖尾外 裙采用与上衣相同的面料。外裙从前面打开，分别从两侧向后面折，最后在臀垫处蓬 起形成法式裙裾。展露的里裙采用滚边、滚条、花边、缎带及刺绣等方式装饰。Baroque styleBaroque styleThe splendid court at Versailles had a leading role during high Baroque period. The people of the courts had to be dressed in the latest The splendid court at V
5、ersailles had a leading role during high Baroque period. The people of the courts had to be dressed in the latest fashion according to the French dic- tate. News of the latest way of dressing was spread by the first fashion magazines, and by fashion fashion according to the French dic- tate. News of
6、 the latest way of dressing was spread by the first fashion magazines, and by fashion dolls, dressed according to the latest ladies fashion and “mens fashion“ Fashion was changing faster than ever before. The France dolls, dressed according to the latest ladies fashion and “mens fashion“ Fashion was
7、 changing faster than ever before. The France fashion of Baroque was very elegant and luxurious. Mens clothing was even extravagant and more feminine. Heavy fabric such as fashion of Baroque was very elegant and luxurious. Mens clothing was even extravagant and more feminine. Heavy fabric such as da
8、mask, velvet and brocade were preferred and garments were lavishly trimmed and embroidered. The shirt which was embroidered or damask, velvet and brocade were preferred and garments were lavishly trimmed and embroidered. The shirt which was embroidered or decorated with lace bulged out the chest and
9、 waist. The open seams of sleeves allowed the richly decorated shirt to be seen. The lavish decorated with lace bulged out the chest and waist. The open seams of sleeves allowed the richly decorated shirt to be seen. The lavish lace cuffs were visible under the broad cuffs of the sleeves.lace cuffs
10、were visible under the broad cuffs of the sleeves. The knee length, tight fitting outer coat came into fashion around 1670. It was made out of brocade and decorated with gold or silver The knee length, tight fitting outer coat came into fashion around 1670. It was made out of brocade and decorated w
11、ith gold or silver braids and metal buttons. The vest worn underneath was a little shorter and had the same cut. Womens bodice had a comfort- able braids and metal buttons. The vest worn underneath was a little shorter and had the same cut. Womens bodice had a comfort- able width when fashion was le
12、d from the Netherlands. With the arrival of French fashion,the waist was once more tightly laced. The width when fashion was led from the Netherlands. With the arrival of French fashion,the waist was once more tightly laced. The reinforced stomacher was held together at the front over a tucker. The
13、long trailing outer skirt was made of the same material as thereinforced stomacher was held together at the front over a tucker. The long trailing outer skirt was made of the same material as the bodice. The skirt was open at the front and the edges were folded over and pulled back and were puffed o
14、ut over seat padding into bodice. The skirt was open at the front and the edges were folded over and pulled back and were puffed out over seat padding into French tail. The visible underskirt was made decorated with e. g. braid, cord, lace, ribbons, and embroidery.French tail. The visible underskirt
15、 was made decorated with e. g. braid, cord, lace, ribbons, and embroidery.17世纪纪巴洛克服装服装变变得自然、松弛的同时时，装饰饰得到了很大程度的重视视并趋趋向奢 侈。 男装外套收腰且下摆摆肥大，紧紧腰硬挺的短上衣和小背心长长至肋下且仅仅 仅仅系下面一半的纽纽扣，倾倾向于类类似女性的形体特征，夸张张的拉夫领领 。裤长裤长 至膝，在前腹部、两侧侧和边缘边缘 均有饰带饰带 和花结结装饰饰，抦露出 衬裤衬裤 脚边边；装饰饰众多，多层层灯笼笼袖、纷纷繁的细细褶，繁杂杂的花边边。抽 皱皱、带结带结 、流苏苏，裤裤子两侧侧、上衣的边
16、缘边缘 及袖口处饰处饰 有一排排的穗 带带，针织针织 花边边比以前更宽宽、更精致，以份额额上通常具有巴洛克风风格 刺绣绣。靴口外展，露出是由精美花边边的长长筒袜。驼鸟驼鸟 毛装饰饰的宽宽沿 帽，带带假发发并在上面撒上香粉。 女装在自然的基础础上稍有夸张张，利用繁多而堆砌的褶裥裥、凌乱的花边边 饰带饰带 和炫目的大小花饰饰去塑造雍容华贵华贵 。拉夫领领型，紧紧身胸衣，多 层层而庞庞大的裙子，外层层的裙前中开及腰高衩并将裙角拉到后臀，形成 内外裙对对比。巴洛克服装通常采用人为为夸张张的漂亮造型、炫丽灿烂丽灿烂 的色彩、奢华华 名贵贵的材料、动动感跳跃跃的旋律。 罗罗可可风风格服装一般具有纤纤柔矫饰矫饰 的形象、繁杂琐杂琐 碎的造型、艳丽艳丽 娇娇媚的色彩、精巧奇特的装饰饰以及刻意的不对对称和复杂杂的曲线线。巴洛克时时代的服装风风格有下列特质质 : 充裕挥挥霍的装饰饰、自由而流动动的线线条、写实实及曲线线的型态态在男子服装与形貌上，由之前的阳刚刚之气转转而朝向阴柔 虚华华的方向来发发展。 男士在面容形貌以蓄留长长而卷曲的头发头发 ；留八字山羊
