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1、法国香水与文化,汇报人： 2018-10-15,CONTENTS,CHAPTER 01,The history of perfume,CHAPTER 02,CHAPTER 03,CHAPTER 04,CHAPTER 05,Dilution classes,Fragrance notes,How to apply perfume,Famous perfume,CHAPTER 06,Recommendations,perfume,英语中“香水”（perfume）一词，从拉丁文perfumum 衍生而来，意思是(through smoke). ”穿透烟雾”。在弥漫缭绕的熏香雾中，祈祷者的精神得到抚慰
2、，嗅觉得到愉悦，身体得到放松。 尼罗河畔的底比斯，女王哈兹赫普撒特的神庙里面有 一系列的壁画，描述了3500年以前，一个古埃及的船队到 “彭特之地”去寻找一种叫“没药”（Myrrh）的香料。这是关于香料的最早记载。,The history of perfume,中世纪早期,14世纪,15至16世纪,17世纪,六世纪初 , 阿拉伯人发明了从花的浸出物中析出液体的植物蒸馏法，开始 向世界各地输出有名的戈雷香水波斯提炼玫瑰油，巴格达成了“香之都”,第一批现代香水被创造出来，它由一种香精和酒精混合而成，这是应匈牙利的伊丽莎白女王之命而研制的。,十五世纪末 , 意大利已广泛使用香水, 十六世纪的意大利市
3、场上 出现了带有浓烈的动物香味及杏红花香味的手套 , 随后也流传 到法国和英国。在香水历史上被称作现代香水之父的匈牙利香水 , 一般认为是在十六世纪问世的 。,十七世纪时法国的红衣主教马萨兰象洗澡似地浑身涂满香水 , 围着放有龙涎香和茉莉香的圆型香炉, 房问的四周连珍藏玩 物的大厅也洒满了香才。 这 时, 香水作为一种时髦商品 , 声誉日隆。,香水的发展历史,18世纪,法国大革命,十九世纪,19世纪下到现在,十八世纪, 出现了酒精香油混成的香水那时 , 不论男女老少都对香水表现出异常的热情 , 因而被称为“ 香水的时代 “。当时, 所有化妆品都具有浓烈的香味, 香水的香味愈浓被视为愈贵重。路易
4、十五时的官廷被称为“ 香宫廷 ”。,大革命时期, 出现了一种名为“ 绞架之精”的香水 。拿破仑的皇后约瑟芬,由于故乡在西印度群岛,喜欢浓郁的香水,特别嗜好麝香 ,故有“ 麝香狂”的别称。这时, 还出现了蔷薇香的苏打肥皂和香草香的肥皂。拿破仑还曾帮助过推行酒精香油混成的香水。,十九世纪下半叶, 以法国为中心制造出合成香料,香水不再是单一的蔷薇或荃菜的花香,新的混合型香水具有各种花 的香型。香水家族也由此迅速壮大，现代香水工业由此繁盛发展。,法国香料化学家兼医生皮埃尔佛朗索瓦兹帕斯科尔娇兰（Guerlain）,于1828年创立了闻名世界的最早的香业公司。1853年推出的帝王香水，当即荣获拿破仑三世
5、赐予的“御用香氛”之名，娇兰本人还被拿破仑三世皇后钦选为“御用调香师”。,Dilution classes 香水浓度,The most diluted version of fragrance, usually with 1% 3% perfume oil in alcohol and water. Usually lasts for less than an hour.,A light spray composition with 5% 15% pure perfume essence dissolved in alcohol. Usually lasts for about 3 hours
6、.,The best term used to describe a fragrance. Contains 15% 30% pure perfume essence and lasts for about 5 to 8 hours.,Slightly oilier, perfume, is composed of 20% 30% pure perfume essence. A single application of perfume can last up to 24 hours.,Light, fresh and fruity, typically composed of 2% 5% p
7、erfume oils in alcohol and water. Usually lasts for about 2 hours.,Fragrance notes 香调,Also called the head notes. The scents that are perceived immediately on application of a perfume. They form a persons initial impression of a perfume and thus are very important in the selling of a perfume.,Also r
8、eferred to as heart notes. The scent of a perfume that emerges just prior to the dissipation of the top note. The middle note compounds form the “heart” or main body of a perfume.,The scent of a perfume that appears close to the departure of the middle notes. The base and middle notes together are t
9、he main theme of a perfume. They are typically rich and “deep“ and are usually not perceived until 30 minutes after application.,Fragrance notes,请关注公众号,DO Spritz With Restraint,DONT Forget About Your Clothes And Hair,DO Target Areas That Diffuse Heat,DO Moisturize First,Some taboos,Lower part of the
10、 body is better than higher part.,Where to apply your perfume?,Famous Perfume,N 5,I wear nothing but a few drops of Chanel No.5. -Marilyn Monroe,Chanel,Joy,Jean Patou,Terre dhermes,This is for the man who has his feet firmly on the ground, but his head is in the stars.,Hermes,Shalimar,Gurlain,Perfume recommendation,Thanks for watching,
