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1、Copyright 2005 American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists252TM 143-2001AATCC Technical Manual/2006Developed in 1975 by AATCC Commit-tee RA61; revised 1982, 1989, 1992,1996; editorially revised and reaffirmed1984, 2001; editorially revised 1986,1991, 1997, 2004, 2005. Technicallyequivalen
2、t to ISO 15487.1. Purpose and Scope1.1 This test method is designed forevaluating the smoothness appearance offlat fabric and seams, and the retention ofpressed-in creases in garments and othertextile products after repeated home laun-dering.1.2 Any washable textile end productmay be evaluated for s
3、moothness appear-ance, seam smoothness and crease reten-tion using this method.1.3 Textile end products containingfabrics of any construction, such as wo-ven, knit and nonwoven, may be evalu-ated according to this method.1.4 Techniques for seaming and creas-ing are not outlined since the purpose ist
4、o evaluate textile end products as theywill be supplied from manufacturing oras ready for use. Furthermore, seaming orcreasing techniques would be controlledby fabric properties.2. Principle2.1 Textile end product items are sub-jected to standard home laundering prac-tices. A choice is provided of h
5、and or ma-chine washing, alternative machine washcycles and temperatures, and alternativedrying procedures. Evaluation is per-formed using a standard lighting andviewing area by rating the appearance ofspecimens in comparison with appropri-ate reference standards.3. Terminology3.1 appearance of text
6、ile end prod-ucts, n.the overall visual impression ofa textile end product quantified by com-parison of individual components withappropriate reference standards.3.2 ballast, n.in procedures for pro-cessing or testing of textiles, material thatis used to bring the total weight or vol-ume of the text
7、iles to an amount specifiedin the procedure.3.3 crease retention, n.in fabrics,the visual impression of an insertedcrease quantified by comparison with aset of reference standards.3.4 dryer creases, n.sharp folds orlines running in any direction in a laun-dered or dried specimen.NOTE: Dryer creases
8、are an unin-tended result of restricted movement ofspecimens in the washer or the dryer.3.5 durable press, adj.having theability to retain substantially the initialshape, flat seams, pressed-in creases andunwrinkled appearance during use andafter laundering or drycleaning.3.6 laundering, n.of textil
9、e mate-rials, a process intended to remove soilsand/or stains by treatment (washing) withan aqueous detergent solution and nor-mally including rinsing, extracting anddrying.3.7 seam smoothness, n.in fabrics,the visual impression of planarity of aseamed specimen quantified by compari-son with a set o
10、f reference standards.3.8 smoothness appearance, n.infabrics, the visual impression of planarityof a specimen quantified by comparisonwith a set of reference standards.4. Safety PrecautionsNOTE: These safety precautions arefor information purposes only. The pre-cautions are ancillary to the testing
11、proce-dures and are not intended to be all inclu-sive. It is the users responsibility to usesafe and proper techniques in handlingmaterials in this test method. Manufac-turers MUST be consulted for specificdetails such as material safety data sheetsand other manufacturers recommenda-tions. All OSHA
12、standards and rulesmust also be consulted and followed.4.1 Good laboratory practices shouldbe followed. Wear safety glasses in alllaboratory areas.4.2 The 1993 AATCC Standard Refer-ence Detergent may cause irritation. Careshould be taken to prevent exposure toskin and eyes.4.3 All chemicals should b
13、e handledwith care.4.4 Manufacturers safety recommen-dations should be followed when operat-ing laboratory testing equipment.4.5 When evaluating crease retention,use of a lamp with a shield can aid in pre-vention of burns that could result fromlamp heat.5. Uses and Limitations5.1 This test method is
14、 designed to beused only for evaluating the appearanceof washable fabrics after repeated homelaundering.5.2 The test procedure is designed toreflect the capabilities of home laundryequipment which is currently used byconsumers. In general, it is preferable toconduct the test under relatively severel
15、aundering conditions.5.3 Prints and patterns may mask themussiness present in textile end products.The rating process is, however, based onthe visual appearance of specimens in-cluding such effects.5.4 The interlaboratory reproducibilityof the results of this test method dependsupon mutual agreement
16、 by users of themethod on the washing and drying condi-tions as outlined in 8.1 and the weightingfactors to use for individual componentsof the items as described in 9.7.1.6. Apparatus and Materials6.1 Automatic washing machine (see12.1).6.2 Automatic tumble dryer (see 12.1).6.3 Drip dry and line dr
17、y facilities.6.4 A 9.5 L (10.0 qt) pail.6.5 1993 AATCC Standard ReferenceDetergent (see 12.2 and 12.7).6.6 Ballast of 920 920 30 mm (36 36 1 in.) hemmed pieces of bleachedcotton sheeting (Wash load ballast type 1)or 50/50 polyester/cotton plain weave(Wash load ballast type 3) (see 12.3).6.7 Lighting
18、 and evaluation area in anotherwise darkened room using the over-head lighting arrangement shown in Fig.1 (see 12.4). It has been the experience ofmany observers that light reflected fromthe side walls near the viewing board caninterfere with the rating results. It is rec-ommended that the side wall
19、s be paintedmatte black (85 Gloss less than 5 units)or that blackout curtains be mounted onboth sides of the viewing board to elimi-nate the reflective interference.6.8 A 500-watt DXC (RFL-2) floodlamp with reflector and light shield, posi-tioned as shown in Fig. 2, for evaluatingcrease retention.6.
20、9 Standard AATCC Three-Dimen-sional Smoothness Appearance Replicas,set of six (see Fig. 3 and 12.2).6.10 Standard AATCC PhotographicSeam Smoothness Replicas prepared forrating single- and double-needle seams(see Fig. 4 and 12.2). The reproductionsshown in Fig. 4 should not be used forrating.AATCC Te
21、st Method 143-2001Appearance of Apparel and Other Textile End Productsafter Repeated Home LaunderingCopyright 2005 American Association of Textile Chemists and ColoristsAATCC Technical Manual/2006TM 143-20012536.11 Standard AATCC Three-Dimen-sional Crease Replicas, set of five (seeFig. 5 and 12.2).6
22、.12 Steam or dry iron with appropri-ate fabric temperature settings.6.13 Detergent (for hand wash).6.14 Scale with at least 5 kg or 10 lbcapacity.7. Test Specimens7.1 For textile end product tests, selectthree items for testing.8. Procedure8.1 Tables II, III and IV summarize thealternate washing and
23、 drying conditionsand settings. Additional information onthe machine and laundering conditionsmay be found in the monograph, Stan-dardization of Home Laundry Test Con-ditions, elsewhere in this TECHNICALMANUAL.8.1.1 It is recognized that special cy-cles or features are available on currentwashing ma
24、chines and dryers to achieveimproved performance on certain items;i.e., gentle cycles with reduced agitationto protect delicately constructed items,and durable press cycles, with cool-downor cold rinses and reduced spin speeds, tominimize wrinkling. In evaluating ap-pearance retention, however, the
25、more se-vere Normal or Cotton Sturdy machinecycle is considered most appropriate. Ifmodifications to any of the cycles (see8.2) are used, these must be reported inthe results (see Section 10).8.2 Standard washing.8.2.1 Hand Wash(see 12.7). Dis-solve 20.0 0.1 g of 1993 AATCC Stan-dard Reference Deter
26、gent in 7.57 0.06L (2.00 0.02 gal) of water at 41 3C(105 5F) in a 9.5 L (10.0 qt) pail andthen add the three textile end productspecimens. Wash for 2.0 0.1 min withno twisting or wringing. Rinse once using7.57 0.06 L (2.00 0.02 gal) of water at41 3C (105 5F). Remove the speci-mens and dry by Procedu
27、re C, Drip (see8.3.3).8.2.2 Machine WashUse specifiedwater level, the selected water tempera-ture for the washing cycle and a rinsetemperature of less than 29C (85F). Ifthis rinse temperature is not attainable,record available rinse temperature.8.2.3 Add 66.0 0.1 g of 1993AATCC Standard Reference De
28、tergent.In soft water areas this may be reduced toavoid excessive sudsing, but in that casethe amount should be stated in the reportof test results.8.2.4 Add textile end product speci-mens and enough ballast to make a 1.8 0.06 kg (4.00 0.13 lb) load. Evaluationof heavy textile end product items mayr
29、equire the addition of ballast beyond the1.8 kg limit to balance the load whereFig. 1Lighting equipment for viewing test specimens.Materials list: (a) Two 8-ft Type F96 CW (Cool White) preheat Rapid Start fluorescent lamps (without baffleor glass). (b) One white enamel reflector (without baffle or g
30、lass). (c) One general type swatch mount,spring loaded. Fabricate using light sheet metal (22 ga.). (d) One in. plywood mounting board painted tomatch No. 2 gray chip on AATCC Gray Scale for Staining.Fig. 2Lighting and viewing arrangement for crease retention.Fig. 3AATCC 3-D smoothness appearance re
31、plicas.Copyright 2005 American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists254TM 143-2001AATCC Technical Manual/2006distribution is a problem. A weight limitof 2.7 0.06 kg (6.00 0.13 lb) may thenbe used and noted in the report. Set thewasher for the selected washing cycleand time (see Tables II and
32、 III). Normalor Cotton Sturdy is recommended. Forvery critical evaluations and in arbitra-tion, limit the number of specimens perwasher load to those from one sample.8.2.5 For specimens to be dried by Pro-cedures A, B or D, allow washing to pro-ceed automatically through the final spincycle. Remove
33、the test specimens imme-diately after the final spin cycle, separatetangled pieces, taking care to minimizedistortion, and dry by Procedure A, B orD (see Tables II and IV).8.2.6 For specimens to be dried by Pro-cedure C, Drip Dry, remove the speci-mens from the washer just before thewater begins to
34、drain for the final rinsecycle. Remove specimens soaking wet.8.2.7 Washer creases. Specimens maybe in a folded or creased conformation af-ter removal from the washer. Suchcreases present after laundering should bestraightened out prior to drying.8.3 Drying.8.3.1 (A) Tumble Dry. Place thewashed load
35、(test specimens and ballast)in the tumble dryer and set the tempera-ture control to generate the correct ex-haust temperatures as specified in TableIV. For fibers that are heat sensitive,lower temperatures consistent with pro-ducers recommendations are required,and must be reported. Operate the drye
36、runtil the total load is dry. Remove theload immediately after the machine stops.Avoid overdrying. Static cling becomes aproblem with overdrying, particularlywith lightweight items, because it pre-vents the specimens from tumbling freely.8.3.2 (B) Line Dry. Textile end productitems are to be hung on
37、 an appropriatehanger, straightening and smoothing fac-ings, seams, etc. Allow specimens tohang in still air at room temperature untildry.8.3.3 (C) Drip Dry. Textile end productitems should be hung as described in8.3.2. Allow specimens to hang in still airat room temperature until dry.8.3.4 (D) Scre
38、en Dry. Spread eachspecimen on a horizontal screen or perfo-rated surface, removing wrinkles but notdistorting or stretching the specimen. Al-low the specimens to dry in still air atroom temperature.8.3.5 Dryer creases. If specimens arefolded or creased after any drying cyclebut the last, they shoul
39、d be rewet and anattempt should be made to remove thecreases prior to additional washing anddrying. No attempt to remove wrinkles orcreases should be made after the fifth cy-cle of drying.8.4 Repeat the selected washing anddrying cycles four more times or to anagreed number of cycles.8.5 Prior to ev
40、aluation, preconditionand then condition test specimens asdirected in ASTM D 1776, Standard Prac-tice for Conditioning and Testing Textiles(see 12.6). Condition the test specimensfor a minimum of 4 h in the standard at-mosphere for textile testing 21 1C (70 2F) and 65 2% RH. Textile endproduct items
41、 should be hung for condi-tioning as described in 8.3.2.A. For single needle seams.B. For double needle seams.Fig. 4AATCC photographic seam smoothness replicas.Fig. 5AATCC crease retention replicas.Copyright 2005 American Association of Textile Chemists and ColoristsAATCC Technical Manual/2006TM 143
42、-20012559. Evaluation9.1 Three trained observers should rateeach test specimen independently.9.2 The overhead fluorescent lightshould be the only light source for theviewing board. All other lights in theroom should be turned off except whenrating crease appearance. In that case thefloor lamp with r
43、eflector and light shield,positioned as shown in Fig. 2, is alsorequired.9.3 The observer is to stand directly infront of the specimen 1.2 0.3 m (4 ft 1 in.) away from the board. It has beenfound that normal variations in the heightof the observer above and below the arbi-trary 1.5 m (5.0 ft) eye le
44、vel have no sig-nificant effect on the grade given.9.4 Smoothness Appearance.9.4.1 Mount the test specimen on theviewing board as illustrated in Fig. 1,with the fabric length in the vertical di-rection. Place the most similar three-di-mensional plastic replicas on each side ofthe test specimen to fa
45、cilitate compara-tive rating.9.4.2 Although the 3-D SmoothnessAppearance (SA) replicas were cast fromwoven fabrics, it is understood that thesewrinkled surfaces do not duplicate allpossibilities of fabric surfaces. The repli-cas are to be used as guides which repre-sent various levels of fabric smoo
46、thnessor freedom from wrinkles. The observershould mentally integrate degree and fre-quency of wrinkles in the specimen to de-termine a level of smoothness that can beidentified with the SA replica numberwhich most nearly represents thatsmoothness appearance level; see TableV.9.4.3 Assign the numeri
47、cal grade of thereplica which most nearly matches thesmoothness appearance of the test speci-men, or assign a grade midway betweenthose whole-number standards whichhave no half-number standards separatingthem (SA-1.5, SA-2.5, SA-4.5) if the ap-pearance of the test specimen warrants it.9.4.4 An SA-5
48、grade is equivalent tothe SA-5 replica and represents thesmoothest appearance, while an SA-1replica represents very poor appearance.9.4.5 If dryer creases are present onany specimens to be evaluated, take carein rating the specimens. Some dryercreases can be disregarded (commonlycalled “reading out”
49、). When the grade ofa dryer creased specimen differs from theother specimens by more than one grade,the test should be repeated with newspecimens, taking all precautions toavoid the occurrence of dryer creases.9.5 Appearance of Seams.9.5.1 Mount the test specimen on theviewing board with the seam in
50、 the verti-cal direction. Place the appropriate sin-gle- or double-needle standard seamsmoothness (SS) replicas beside the spec-imen to facilitate comparative rating.9.5.2 Confine observations to the areainfluenced by the seam and disregard theappearance of the surrounding fabric.9.5.3 Assign the nu
51、merical grade of thephotographic standard which most nearlymatches the appearance of the seam inthe test specimen.9.5.4 A seam smoothness grade of SS-5 is equivalent to the appearance of Stan-dard No. 5, the best level of seam appear-ance; a seam smoothness grade of SS-1 isequivalent to that of Stan
52、dard No. 1,which represents a very poor level ofseam appearance.9.6 Appearance of Creases.9.6.1 Mount the test specimen on theviewing board with the crease in the ver-tical direction. Place the most similarthree-dimensional plastic crease replicas(CR) on each side of the test specimen toTable IWash
53、Load Ballast: Finished Fabric SpecificationFiber ContentWash Load BallastType 1100% CottonWash Load BallastType 350/50 3% poly/cottonYarns16/1 ring spun30/2 ring spunFabric Construction52 ( 2) 48 ( 2)48 ( 2) 48 ( 2)Fabric Weight155 5 g/m2(4.55 0.15 oz/yd2)155 5 g/m2(4.55 0.15 oz/yd2)Piece Size92.0 9
54、2.0 3 cm(36.0 36.0 1 in.)92.0 92.0 3 cm(36.0 36.0 1 in.)Piece Weight130 10 g130 10 gTable IIAlternative Washing and Drying Conditions (see 8.1)Machine CycleWash TemperaturesDrying ProceduresHand, in pail(III) 41 3C (105 5F)(A) Tumble:(1) Normal/Cotton Sturdy(IV) 49 3C (120 5F)i. iiCotton Sturdyii. i
55、Delicate(V) 60 3C (140 5F)iii. Permanent Press(2) Delicate(B) Line(3) Permanent Press(C) Drip(D) ScreenTable IIIWashing Machine Conditions (see 8.1)Normal/Cotton SturdyDelicatePermanent PressWater Level18 1 gal18 1 gal18 1 galAgitator Speed179 2 spm119 2 spm179 2 spmWashing Time12 min8 min10 minSpin
56、 Speed645 15 rpm430 15 rpm430 15 rpmFinal Spin Cycle6 min4 min4 minTable IVDryer Conditions (see 8.1)Cotton SturdyDelicateDurable PressExhaust TemperatureHighLowHigh66 5C (150 10F) 60C (140F)66 5C (150 10F)Cool Down Time10 min10 min10 minTable VFabric Smoothness Grades by SA Replica EquivalentsGrade
57、DescriptionSA-5Equivalent to the SA-5 Replica. Very smooth, pressed, finished appearance.SA-4Equivalent to the SA-4 Replica. Smooth, finished appearance.SA-3.5Equivalent to the SA-3.5 Replica. Fairly smooth but nonpressed appearance.SA-3Equivalent to the SA-3 Replica. Mussed, nonpressed appearance.S
58、A-2Equivalent to the SA-2 Replica. Rumpled, obviously wrinkled appearance.SA-1Equivalent to the SA-1 Replica. Crumpled, creased and severely wrinkled appearance.Copyright 2005 American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists256TM 143-2001AATCC Technical Manual/2006facilitate comparative rating
59、. Mount rep-licas 1, 3 and 5 on the left and 2 and 4 onthe right.9.6.2 The flood lamp with reflector andlight shield are to be positioned in theviewing area, as shown in Fig. 2, andused during the rating process.9.6.3 Confine observations to thecrease itself and disregard the appearanceof the fabric
60、.9.6.4 Assign the numerical grade ofthe replica which most nearly matchesthe appearance of the crease in the testspecimen.9.6.5 A crease retention grade of CR-5is equivalent to the appearance of Stan-dard No. 5, the best level of crease ap-pearance; a crease retention grade of CR-1 is equivalent to
61、that of Standard No. 1,which represents a very poor level ofcrease appearance.9.7 Appearance of Textile End Products.9.7.1 The individual components to beevaluated in each test item shall be deter-mined and entered on a Rating Chart(Fig. 6).9.7.2 If it is desired to designate certaincomponents as mo
62、re or less important tothe overall appearance of the item,weighting factors should be added to theRating Chart.9.7.3 The weighting factors to be as-signed to each component are:3Very important to overall item ap-pearance.2Moderately important to overallitem appearance.1Slightly important to overall
63、itemappearance.9.7.4 Mount the item on the viewingboard so that the center of the area orcomponent to be rated is approximately1.5 m (5.0 ft) from the floor as illustratedin Fig. 1. Place the appropriate three-dimensional plastic replicas or photo-graphs in proper position to facilitatecomparative r
64、ating (refer to 9.4, 9.5, or9.6).9.7.5 If the item is exceptionally large,such as a sheet, comforter, bedspread,curtain or drapery, fold the item length-wise to produce a panel half the originalwidth. Place this half panel over a rod sothat the fabric length is vertical and thefolded item is in equa
65、l quarters. The rodshould be sufficiently long to accommo-date the half width item. The rod with thelarge item is attached to the rating boardat approximately 1.8 m (6.0 ft) from thefloor. The standard replicas or photo-graphs are positioned to facilitate com-parative rating. Evaluate the area acros
66、sthe full width of the quartered panel at thesame eye level as the replicas. Evaluateall four quarters in the same manner andreport average grade for each componentevaluated in the test item.10. Report10.1 Option 1Using Weighting Fac-torsTotal the weighting factors as-signed to each component in the
67、 ratingchart (Fig. 6) and multiply by 5. Thisgives the maximum point value achiev-able by the item. Multiply the averagegrade recorded for each component by itsassigned weighting factor. Total thesevalues to obtain the actual point valueachieved by the item. Report as the per-centile value of the it
68、em the number ob-tained by dividing the actual point valueby the maximum point value achievableand multiplying by 100. This value is theunit of measure of this test method.10.2 Option 2Report average gradeson each individual component of eachtest item, using the Average Grade col-umn of the Rating C
69、hart.10.3 State washing procedure (Arabicnumber and Roman numeral) and dryingprocedure (capital letter and subscript)from Table II, as well as type of washload ballast (Arabic number). Any devia-tions from stated procedures, such as useof a modified wash cycle, a reducedamount of detergent or a high
70、er thanusual load limit, should be explainedcompletely.10.4 For example, smoothness appear-ance grade SA-3.8 (1-IV-A(i)-3) denotesa crease retention grade of 3.8 for speci-mens washed using a Normal (CottonSturdy) cycle at 49C (120F) with Washload ballast type 3 and tumble dried usingthe Normal (Cot
71、ton Sturdy) cycle.10.5 If fraying occurs in laundering atseams or elsewhere within the product,the location and amount should be noted.11. Precision and Bias11.1 Smoothness appearance11.1.1 Precision and bias of this testprocedure are being established.11.2 Appearance of seams11.2.1 Precision and bi
72、as of this testprocedure are being established.Fig. 6Rating chart.Copyright 2005 American Association of Textile Chemists and ColoristsAATCC Technical Manual/2006TM 143-200125711.3 Appearance of creases11.3.1 Precision and bias of this testprocedure are being established.11.4 Until a precision state
73、ment isgenerated for this test method, use stan-dard statistical techniques in making anycomparisons of test results for eitherwithin-laboratory or between-laboratoryaverages.12. Notes12.1 Contact AATCC, P.O. Box 12215,Research Triangle Park NC 27709; tel: 919/549-8141; fax: 919/549-8933; e-mail: or
74、dersaatcc.org, for model number(s) and source(s) ofapproved washer(s) and dryer(s). Any otherwasher or dryer which is known to give compa-rable results may be used. Washing machineconditions given in Table III represent the actualspeeds and times available on the current speci-fied model(s). Other w
75、ashers may vary in one ormore of these settings. Dryer machine condi-tions given in Table IV represent the actual tem-peratures and cool-down times available on thecurrent specified model(s). Other dryers mayvary in one or more of these settings.12.2 Available from AATCC, P.O. Box12215, Research Tri
76、angle Park NC 27709;tel: 919/549-8141; fax: 919/549-8933; e-mail:ordersaatcc.org.12.3 Ballast are available from TestfabricsInc., P.O. Box 26, 415 Delaware St., W.Pittston PA 18643; tel: 570/603-0432; fax: 570/603-0433; e-mail: ; andTextile Innovators Corp., div. of SDL AtlasL.L.C., P.O. Box 8, 101
77、Forest St., WindsorNC; tel: 252/794-9703; fax: 252/794-9704; e-mail: . Ballast fabrics shouldconform to specifications in Table I.12.4 The use of 8-ft fixtures for viewinglaundered specimens is specified in thismethod. It is recognized, however, that physi-cal limitations in certain laboratories wil
78、l pre-vent the use of 8-ft fixtures. In those situations,4-ft lights may be used but replicas identifiedas SA-4, SA-3 and SA-1 should always beplaced on the left side of the viewing board asthe board is viewed from the front. Replicasidentified as SA-5, SA-3.5 and SA-2 should al-ways be placed on th
79、e viewing board to theright side as the board is viewed from the front.12.5 Like other hand wash procedures,this procedure has inherent limitations; e.g.,limited reproducibility of the type of actioninvolved due to the human element.12.6 ASTM standards are available fromASTM, 100 Barr Harbor Dr., We
80、st Consho-hocken PA 19428; tel: 610/832-9500; fax:610/832-9555.12.7 The AATCC Technical Center con-ducted a study to compare the 1993 AATCCStandard Reference Detergent, AATCC Stan-dard Reference Detergent 124 and two differ-ent types of fabrics (current and proposed) tobe used as ballast, under the
81、following testconditions:Machine cycle:(1)Normal/Cotton SturdyWashing Temp:(V)60 3C (140 5F)Drying Procedure: (A)iTumble dry, cottonsturdy cycleFabrics tested:White Twill (100% cotton)Beige Twill (100% cotton)Grey Poplin (100% cotton)Blue Twill (50/50 poly/cotton)No significant differences were found in theresults using either detergent or ballast loadfabrics.
