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1、This is the story of a sturdy American symbol which has now spread throughout most of the world. The symbol is not the dollar. It is not even Coca-Cola. It is a simple pair of pants called blue jeans, and what the pants symbolize is what Alexis de Tocqueville called “a manly and legitimate passion f
2、or equality. Blue jeans are favored equally by bureaucrats and cowboys; bankers and deadbeats; fashion designers and beer drinkers They draw no distinctions and recognize no classes; they are merely American 1 . Yet they are sought after almost everywhere in the world including Russia, where authori
3、ties recently broke up a teen-aged gang that was selling them on the black market for two hundred dollars a pair. They have been around for a long time, and it seems likely that they will outlive even the necktie.2 This ubiquitous American symbol was the invention of a Bavarian-born Jew. His name wa
4、s Levi Strauss.3 He was born in Bad Ocheim, Germany , in 1829, and during the European political turmoil of 1848 decided to take his chances in New York , to which his two brothers already had emigrated. Upon arrival, Levi soon found that his two brothers had exaggerated their tales of an easy life
5、in the land of the main chance. They were landowners, they had told him; instead, he found them pushing needles, thread, pots, pans ribbons, yarn, scissors and buttons to housewives. For two years he was a lowly peddler, hauling some 180 pounds of sundries door-to-door to eke out a marginal living.
6、When a married sister in San Francisco offered to pay his way West in1850, he jumped at the opportunity, taking with him bolts of canvas he hoped to sell for tenting.4 It was the wrong kind of canvas for that purpose, but while talking with a miner down from the mother lode, he learned that pants st
7、urdy pants that would stand up to the rigors of the digging were almost impossible to find. Opportunity beckoned. On the spot, Strauss measured the mans girth and inseam with a piece of string and, for six dollars in gold dust 2 , had the canvas tailored into a pair of stiff but rugged pants. The mi
8、ner was delighted with the result, word got around about “those pants of Levis” and Strauss was in business. The company has been in business ever since.5When Strauss ran out of canvas, he wrote his two brothers to send more. He received instead a tough, brown cotton cloth made in Nimes, France call
9、ed serge de Nimes and swiftly shortened to “denim”(the word “jeans” derives from G nes, the French word for Genoa, where a similar cloth was produced). Almost from the first, Strauss had his cloth dyed the distinctive indigo that gave blue jeans their name 3 , but it was not until the 1870s that he
10、added the copper rivets which have long since become a company trademark. The rivets were the idea of a Virginia City, Nevada , tailor, Jacob W. Dacis, who added them to pacify a mean-tempered miner called Alkali Ike. Alkali, the story goes, complained that the pockets of his jeans always tore when
11、he stuffed them with ore samples and demanded that Davis do something about it. As a kind of joke, Davis took the pants to a blacksmith and had the packets riveted; once again, the idea worked so well that word got around; in 1873 Strauss appropriated 4 and patented the gimmick and hired Davis as a
12、regional manager.6 By this time, Strauss had taken both his brothers and two brothers-in-law into the company and was ready for his third San Francisco store. Over the ensuing years the company prospered locally, and by the time of his death in 1902, Strauss has become a man of prominence in Califor
13、nia . For three decades thereafter the business remained profitable though small, with sales largely confined to the working people of the West cowboys, lumberjacks, railroad workers, and the like. Levis jeans were first introduced to the East, apparently, during the dude-ranch craze of the 1930s, w
14、hen vacationing Easters returned and spread the word about the wonderful pants with rivets. Another boost came in World War , when blue jeans were declared and essential commodity and were sold only to people engaged in defense work 5 . From a company with fifteen salespeople, two plants, and almost
15、 no business east of the Mississippi in 1946, the organization grew in thirty years to include a sales force of more than twenty-two thousand, with fifty plants and offices in thirty-five countries. Each year, more than 250,000,000 items of Levis clothing are sold including more than 83,000,000 pair
16、s of riveted blue jeans. They have become, through marketing, word of mouth, and demonstrable reliability, the common pants of America . They can be purchased pre-washed, pre-faded, and pre-shrunk for the suitably proletarian look. They adapt themselves to any sort of idiosyncratic use; women slit them at the inseams and convert them into long skirts, men chop them off above the knees and turn them into something to be worn while challenging the surf. Deco
