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1、Iconic Designer Coco Chanel Still Inspire标志性设计师香奈儿活力长存新闻导语：可可香奈儿是世界上空前伟大的女设计师。她于 1971 年逝世，享年 88 岁。香奈儿白手起家的故事被改编成了电影、戏剧以及电视剧进行演绎，文学家也发现其故事有研究的价值。 Gabrielle was Chanels given name.She was born illegitimate, Her father was never really around. He wasnt very responsible. fashion writer Justine Picardie
2、wrote Coco Chanel: The Legend and The Life the latest book on the designer.Although Chanels father was absent, he had a profound influence on her.Her father was an itinerant market trader always on the move, Picardie says. He sold buttons and ribbons, some of the elements which you then see in Chane
3、ls designs.When she was 11 Chanels mother died and her father put her in an orphanage, there she learned to sew.Coco Chanel: The Legend and The Life, by Justine Picardie, explores the iconic designers lasting appeal. She also discovered the elements of what was to make her a great designer, that mix
4、 of darkness and light, white and black. she explains. The pearls, which is so much a part of Chanels style, which seem very much reminiscent of the rosary beads the nun wore, the chains around the nuns waist. There are still tiny chains sewn in the bottom of every Chanel jacket.Chanel left the orph
5、anage, and worked as a cabaret singer. With money from a lover, she started a hat making business in Paris. Picardie says her clients loved the clothes Chanel wore and wanted the same things. At that time women were still wearing corsets, she says. They were wearing dresses they couldnt breathe in,
6、let alone walk in, run in, you know, work in. Chanel stripped away corsets, also sort of unnecessary adornments- that huge feathery flower trimmed hats and the very, very bright, almost clashing colors.Chanel introduced the 20th centurys iconic design: the little black dress.Drawing on interviews wi
7、th surviving acquaintances, relatives and employees, as well as Karl Lagerfeld, current creative director of Chanel, Picardie says she was able to come close to the real person.She was a mass of contradictions, at times was very unhappy and very lonely, she says. There were other periods of great jo
8、y and a sense of huge achievement in her life. But I think that the abandonment that started with her father was to repeat itself. And, at the end of her life, although she had a couple of very close friends, she neverthless died feeling very alone.Picardie makes light of Chanels World War II collab
9、oration with the German occupiers of Paris. She became involved with a German during the occupation of Paris, Picardie says. He was a double agent working for the British as well as the Germans.But according to Suzy Menkes, fashion editor of the International Herald Tribune, none of this is new info
10、rmation.There were persons who were wonderful and helped. There were others who collaborated and its certain that Coco Chanel herself was a collaborator, she says. But you know the company itself has been, for the last 40 years, run by a Jewish family. I dont think people take that against the compa
11、ny.But it was held against Chanel when she returned to Paris in 1954 - from self imposed exile - says Picardie.The French fashion press gave her terrible reviews, probably to punish her for her relationship with this German during the second world war, Picardie says. It was a very brilliant collecti
12、on; these tweed jackets, the jersey jackets and soft suits.In the 1950s and 60s, Chanel was at the top of her game. She started dressing everybody from Brigitte Bardot, Jane Fonda, Elizabeth Taylor and Marilyn Monroe, she says. Chanel also dressed Jackie Kennedy.Menkes adds, Chanels secret is that c
13、larity, that modernity, its just the signage of the word C, and somehow to me it looks very forward thinking, very modern, very dynamic. Certainly the brand was very well managed since she herself passed away. Karl Lagerfeld has certainly rejuvenated Chanel and continues to do so.Menkes says thats w
14、hy Chanel is still an iconic brand. The designer lives on as inspiration itself. Gabrielle 是香奈儿的名字。时装作家贾丝汀皮卡在其最近关于设计师的书可可香奈儿的传奇和生活中写到“她是私生女，她的父亲几乎从来没陪伴在她身边，是一个不负责任的父亲。”虽然香奈儿的父亲陪伴她的时间很少，但是却对香奈儿有很大的影响。皮卡说道：“香奈儿的父亲是总在四处奔波的流动市场交易者，他主要贩卖纽扣和丝带，我们也可以在香奈儿以后的设计中见到这些元素的身影。”在香奈儿 11 岁时，她的母亲去世了。父亲将香奈儿送去了孤儿院，也就是在
15、孤儿院里香奈儿学会了缝纫。“在孤儿院她还发现了致使她成为伟大设计师的元素-光明与黑暗以及黑与白的混合。珍珠是香奈儿风格中很重要的一部分，和修女佩戴的天主教玫瑰经念珠以及修女腰部的链子很像。每件香奈儿外套的底部也缝有小链子。在离开孤儿院之后，香奈儿曾当过酒店歌手。在其爱人的资金帮助下，香奈儿在巴黎开始从事帽子制作。皮卡说到：“香奈儿的客户很喜欢香奈儿的穿着打扮并且希望能像香奈儿那样打扮。”她说道：“当时女性仍穿着很紧身的衣服，穿着这样的衣服她们连呼吸都很困难，更不用说走路、跑步和工作了。香奈儿摒弃了紧身衣和其他一些不必要的装饰品-羽毛花修剪的帽子以及太过鲜亮和不协调的颜色。香奈儿引进了 20 世
16、纪标志性的时尚理念：小黑裙皮卡说道：“从依然存在的熟人、亲人以及员工以及现在的香奈儿创意总监Karl Lagerfeld 那我们可以知道，她总是能捕获正真的人才。”她说道：“由于无数时光的抑郁和孤寂，她是一个多重矛盾的聚合体。当然在她的生命中也有非常愉快和取得重大成就的时候。但是，我认为他父亲对她的抛弃总是如影随形以至于虽然她有几个非常亲密的朋友，但是她死的时候仍然感觉十分孤单。”对于香奈儿在第二次世界大战中同占有巴黎的德国侵略者合作，皮卡只是轻描淡写地带过。皮卡说道：“她加入了侵略巴黎的德国，既为英国也为德国工作。”但是据国际先驱论坛报的时尚编辑 Suzy Menkes 可知，这一消息一点也不算新消息。“那时有人是很积极的并对于战争有一定的贡献和帮助，其他也有人是通敌的，当然可可香奈儿是一个通敌着。但是公司已经在犹太人的经营下延续了 40 年，我认为人们不会就此开始抵制该公司。”皮卡说道：“但 1954 年当香奈儿返回
