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1、TraditionalChineseClothing Chineseclothinghasalonghistory ThebonesewingneedlesfoundinthecultureremainsofZhoukoudian Beijing showthatthepeopleofthePaleolithicAge 旧石器时代 hadlearnedtomakeclothes AtthelateNeolithicAge 新石器时代 peoplefromdifferentregionsandnationshadalreadywornmanydifferentstylesoftheclothes
2、 Twofundamentalstylesofchinesetraditionalcostumes Theupperoutergarmentandtheskirt 上衣下裳制 Thisistheearlieststyleofourchinesecostume AfterQinshihuangunitedthewholechina clothesdisplayeddistinctdifferences Theworkingpeopleworeshortgarmentsmadeofcoarsecloth theywerecalled Bu yi Therichusuallyworelongandl
3、oosefittingdresses SincethenthebasicshapesofChinesecostumehavebeenestablished ShenYi 深衣制 ShenYiisacrossbetweenHuFuandChangPao Itconsistsofatunicandaskit butthetunicandtheskirtaresewedtogether TheHanDynastycostumes Chineseclothinghasalonghistory Peoplefromdifferentregionsandnationshavewornmanydiffere
4、ntstylesoftheclothes SincetheclotheswornbypeopleofHanwerenotconvenientforworking Wu ling oneofKingsofstateZhaoatthattime encouragehispeopletowearHu fu HebecametheearliestreformerinChineseclothinghistory Atthesametime theHanclothingwasenrichedandimproved China scompletecodeofcostumeandtrappingswasest
5、ablishedintheHanDynasty Theyarn dyeing embroideringandmetal processingtechnologiesdevelopedrapidlyintheperiod spurringchangesincostumeandadornments CostumesintheHanDynastyfellintotwocategoriesaccordingtoYijin Thereweretwotypesofgarments thecurving frontunlinedgarmentwithbuttonsdeviouslydownfromtheco
6、llartotheaxilla 曲裾单衣 thestraight frontunlinedgarmentwithbuttonswerestraightlydownfromthecollartothelowerpart 直裾单衣 曲裾单衣图 直裾单衣图 Thepoliciesof recuperating multiplying and buildingtheeconomy duringHanDynastystrengthenedthecommunionbetweenthenationsandchangedthesocialfashionsopeopledressedmoreextravagan
7、tly Forexample Shen yiwornbywomenduringHanDynastyhadseverallayeredskirtswithmanytriangularornamentsweighingthemdownandlongribbons AfterEasternHanDynasty mennolongerworeShen yi butwomenstillworeit Shen yiinfluencedChinesewomenclothingsogreatlythatQipao cheongsam andone piecedressallevolvedfromit 汉代宽袖
8、绕襟深衣 直裰 朱子深衣 Wearersmustexposeunderpants collarform asthecollarwasbigandcurving Clothesmustusewhiteclothaslining thewidthofsleevewas0 4maters Theblousehadnosleeve Wearersoffurclothesshouldhavethefurfacingoutside Waistbandwasveryexquisite Belthookwasmadeofgoldinvariouslivelyandinterestinganimalfigure
9、s Themalekeptthehabitudeofwearingwalkingsabreswithoutbladesfordecorationonly CostumesoftheHanDynastyhad7features TangDynasty InChina shistory theTangDynastywasaperiodwhenthepolityandeconomywerehighlydevelopedandthecultureandartwerethriving TheancientChineseclothingdevelopedtoitspeak Thepoliticalstab
10、ilityandeconomicdevelopment thefrequentforeignrelations contributingtothedevelopmentofclothing Inthisway aspecialopenandromanticstyleofdressandpersonaladornmentswasformed thecostumesoftheTangDynasty TheclothingmaterialsinTangwereexquisiteandthedressesoftheupperclassweremainlymadeofsilkandfamousforso
11、ftnessandlightness Thestructurewasnatural gracefulandelegant andadornmentsweresplendid Themostoutstandinggarmentsinthisgreatperiodwerewomen sdresses TheTangwomeninheritedthistraditionalstyleanddevelopeditfurther openingupthecollarasfarasexposingthecleavagebetweenthebreasts Thiswasunheardofandunimagi
12、nableinthepreviousdynasties Butthenewstylewassoonembracedbytheopen mindedwomenoftheTangDynasty 襦裙唐代妇女的主要服饰 ItwasafashiontowearHufu garmentsoftheTartarsorthosewholivedintheWesternRegions UntiltheHighTang theinfluencesofHufuweregraduallyweakened Men scostumeTheround collarrobe wasthecostumewornbyeunuc
13、hsduringTangdynasties Itisalsocalledthe dailycostume sinceitwasthemainarticleofclothingformales Usually thecostumehadtheroundcollarandclaspedontherightside Therewasaborderalongthebottomoftherobe Ineverydaylife around collarrobeshirttogetherwithblackleatherbootswasverypopular 唐代官吏常服袍衫 Cheongsam旗袍 The
14、cheongsam orQipaoinChinese isevolved 逐步形成 fromakindofancientclothingofManchuethnicminority 满族 Inancienttimes itgenerallyreferredgownswornbythepeopleofManchurie 满族 Mongolia 蒙古 andtheEight Banner 汉军八旗 清初彩绣旗袍内蒙古白音尔灯清荣宪公主墓出土 彩绣阔镶边旗袍 清末满族妇女服装样式 古代满族服饰 WhentheearlyManchurulerscametoChinaproper theymovedth
15、eircapitaltoBeijingandcheongsambegontospreadintheCentralPlains 中原 Althoughthe1911Revolution toppled 推翻 theruleoftheQingDynasty thefemaledresssurvivedthepoliticalchangeand withsucceedingimprovements hasbecomethetraditionaldressforChinesewomen 20世纪30年代彩绣大襟短袖旗袍 Fromthe1930s cheongsamalmostbecametheunif
16、ormforwomen Folkwomen students workersandhighest tone 达官显贵的 womenalldressedthemselvesincheongsam whichevenbecameaformalsuitforoccasionsofsocialintercourses 交际 ordiplomaticactivities Later cheongsamevenspreadtoforeigncountriesandbecamethefavoriteofforeignfemales 银绣云龙纹高领中袖旗袍 彩袖曲襟低领长袖旗袍20世纪20年代末期的样式 传世实物 绣银云龙纹高领中袖旗袍20世纪20年代中期的样式 After1940s influncedbynewfashionhomeandabroad Manchumen slonggown 长袍 wasphasedout 废弃 whilewomen scheongsambecamenarrow sleevedandfittedtothewaistandhadarelativelyloose
