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1、Chinese Traditional Costume1古柏文档Chinese Traditional CostumeHan DynastySui and Tang dynastiesSong and Yuan dynastiesMing and Qing Dynastiesthe Republic of China Modern society2古柏文档HanfuHanfu is known as Hanzhuang , is the traditional dress of the Han Chinese people. The term Hanfu derives from the Bo
2、ok of Han,which says,then many came to the court to pay homage and were delighted at the clothing style of the Han. (后数来朝贺，乐汉衣服制度)3古柏文档Yi(衣)：Anyopencross-collargarment,andwornbybothsexes.Pao(袍)：Anyclosedfull-bodygarment,wornonlybymen.Ru(襦)：Opencross-collarshirt.Shan(衫):Opencross-collarshirtorjackett
3、hatiswornovertheyi.Qun(裙)orchang(裳)：Skirtforwomenandmen.Ku(裤)：Trousersorpants.The structure4古柏文档Informal dressTypesincludetops(yi)andbottoms(dividedfurtherintopantsandskirtsforbothgenders),andone-piecerobesthatwraparoundthebodyonceorseveraltimes)5古柏文档Semi-formal dresschang(裳):apleatedskirtbixi(蔽膝)：l
4、ongfrontclothpanelattachedfromthewaistbelt.zhaoshan(罩衫)：longopenfrontedcoat6古柏文档Formal dressXuanduan(玄端)：averyformaldarkrobe,equivalenttotheWesternwhitetieShenyi(深衣)：alongfull-bodygarmentCurving-frontrobe(曲裾):diagonalbodywrappingPanlingpao(盤领袍):closed,round-collaredrobe;mostlyusedforofficialdress7古柏
5、文档Costume in Tang DynastyCostume in Tang Dynasty8古柏文档pThebriefintroductionofcostumeinTangDynastypThefeaturesofcostumeinTangDynastypHowdoescostumeinTangDynastycomeintobeing?Contents9古柏文档Tang DynastyFromtheSuitotheTang,theancientChineseclothingdevelopedtoitspeak.Thepoliticalstability,economicdevelopme
6、nt,manufacturingandtextiletechnology,andthefrequentforeignrelationscontributedtothedevelopmentofclothing.Theclothinginthisperiodhadformedthemostfantasticchapterintheclothinghistory.10古柏文档FeaturesThegeneralfeaturesofwomenscostumeinTangdynasty:topless(上空装，袒胸装）exposedarmobliquecollarlargesleeveslongski
7、rtdressAllofthesemakeitdeservethemosttypicalopenclothingstyle.Theclothingmaterialsareexquisite,thestructureisnatural,gracefulandelegant,andadornmentsaresplendid.11古柏文档FeaturesThisisthepictureBeautiesWearingFlowersshowingaladystrollinginthecourt.Theladywaswearingaleno-madeuppergarment,high-waistskirt
8、andwithoutunderdress.Thisiscalled“topless”12古柏文档TheTangwomendressedinsetsofgarments,andeachsetauniqueinitself.Features13古柏文档Ingeneral,theTangwomensdressescanbeclassifiedintothreecategories:Thetraditionalruqun(襦裙)ordoublelayeredorpaddedshortjacketthatistypicalofcentralChina.Features14古柏文档Thehufu,oral
9、iendressthatcamefromtheSilkRoadCross-Dressing(namely,girlsdressedasboys),thefullsetofmalegarmentsthatbrokethetraditionoftheConfucianformalitiesFeatures15古柏文档HowdoescostumeinTangDynastycomeintobeing?Frist,inChinesehistory,theTangDynastywasaperiodofunityandprosperitywhenthepolityandeconomywerehighlyde
10、veloped.MaterialisticabundanceandarelativelyrelaxedsocialatmospheregavetheTangDynastyanunprecedentedopportunitytodevelopculturally,reachingitsheightinpoetry,painting,musicanddance.16古柏文档Second,basedontheprogressmadeinsilkreelinganddyeingtechniques,thevarietyqualityandquantityoftexitlematerialsreache
11、danunprecedentedheight.HowdoescostumeinTangDynastycomeintobeing?17古柏文档HowdoescostumeinTangDynastycomeintobeing?Third,theTanggovementwastolerant,andoftenappreciativeofreligions,artandculturefromtheoutsideworld.ThoughtheformsofgarmentswerestillthecontinuationoftheHanDynastyandSuiDynasty,theyhavedistin
12、ctivestylesbyitselfbeinginfluencedbyculturesandartsoftheWesternRegions.18古柏文档Thankyouforyourlistening!19古柏文档Song DynastyCostumeofSongDynasty(960-1279)wassimpleandnatural,reflectingthedevelopmenttendencyoftheera.ThestyleofcostumeinSongDynastytendedtobeconservative,impressingpeoplewithsimple,pureandel
13、egantfeelings.Themaincharacteristicsofwomensclothingarenarrow,long,thin.唐代文化是一种开放的类型，但宋代文化则是一种相对收敛的类型，两者有很大的差异，宋代在政治上虽然开放民主，但由于“程朱理学”的思想禁锢，和对外政策的妥协退让，服饰文化不再艳丽奢华，而是简洁质朴。宋代强调“存天理，灭人欲”的观念，使人的个体对立性全部仰制了，对妇女的约束也推到了极点，所以宋代女装拘谨、保守，色彩淡雅恬静，宋代不论权贵的皇亲国戚，还是一般的百姓，都爱穿着直领,对襟的褙子，因为既舒适得体，又显得典雅大方。20古柏文档Song DynastyTh
14、eclothingstyleofSongDynastyischaracterizedbyitselegance.Menusuallyworegownswithroundcollars,whilewomenworeshortjacketsorcoatswithmatchingshortrobesorChinese-stylejacketswithbuttonsdownthefront.Thiselegantstylewasinfluencedbythedressofthenorthernminoritypeoples.Gauzepants.SouthernSongdynasty.Chayuans
15、han,Fuzhou,Fujianprovince.Thispairofpantsismadefromextremelythingauzedecoratedwithpreciousobjects(goldingots,swastikas,coral,rhinocerotichorns,dharmawheels),lozengesandflowers,allarrangedinanelegantandorderlymanner.PantsinthisstylewerepopularintheSongdynastyandusuallywornunderalongskirt.21古柏文档Song D
16、ynastyIthasalreadybeganfoot-bindingintheSongdynastywhensancunjinlianhascameintobeing.三寸金莲三寸金莲22古柏文档Yuan DynastyTheYuanDynasty(1279-1368)wastheamalgamationageofethnicgroupsinChinashistory,andthedressesandpersonaladornmentsofthistimealsofullyrepresentedthisfeature.ThecostumesofYuanDynastyhasnofixedsty
17、le,themainstyleisrobe.Thereislittledifferenceinrobebetweenmenandwomen.However,duetotheCharacteristicofnation,thegarmentsinYuanDynastyaredividedintoMongolianstyleandHanstyle.23古柏文档Yuan Dynasty蒙古族女子，时兴戴一种很有特色的蒙古族女子，时兴戴一种很有特色的“罟罟冠罟罟冠”，高约高约70100厘米，其顶端扩大成平顶帽厘米，其顶端扩大成平顶帽形；外面以红绢、金锦或毛毡包裱形；外面以红绢、金锦或毛毡包裱。24古柏
18、文档Yuan DynastyZhisunfu:质孙服上衣下裳，上紧下短，并在腰间加襞(b）积，肩背挂大珠Zhisunfuwasjustformulatedin1321duringthereignofYuanEmperorYingzongbyreferringtoancientsystems:upperandlowershortgarmentswerepiecedtogether;foldswereaddedtothewaistline,andbigbeadswerehungonshouldersandtheback.Emperorsandofficialsinallranksworesuchg
19、arments,andtheHanpeoplecalledthemastheYiseyi.（一色衣）.25古柏文档Yuan Dynasty26古柏文档Yuan Dynasty元代蒙古族男子，戴一种用藤篾做的元代蒙古族男子，戴一种用藤篾做的“瓦楞帽瓦楞帽”，有方圆两种样式，顶中装，有方圆两种样式，顶中装饰有珠宝。饰有珠宝。27古柏文档28古柏文档Qing DynastyDuringtheQingDynasty,clotheswereelegantandpoised(雍容华贵的).Peopleatthattimeworeclothesbefittingtheirsocialstatus,offic
20、ialranks(社会地位)andlifestyleaccordingtotheregulationsoftheQinggovernment.29古柏文档Theornamentationofformal(chaofu)andsemi-formal(jifu)courtrobesincludedthedragonmotiftogetherwithadecorativerepresentationoftheChineseconceptionofthecosmos.Thedragonsymbolisedtheemperor,knownastheSonofHeaven,andpermissiontow
21、eartherobewasgivenbyhim.30古柏文档31古柏文档Thosewhopassedthecivilserviceexaminationsandattainedthestatusofagovernmentofficialwerealsograntedtheprivilegeofwearingcourtrobes.Rankwasfurtherdistinguishedbyahierarchyofcolourandornamentation.32古柏文档ThecheongsamisaneminentlyfeatureofQizhuangcostume,whichstillhasce
22、rtainimpactsonmoderncostume.Especially,alongwiththedevelopmentofChina,acheongsamthatdemonstrateswomenscurvaceousbeautyhasbecometherepresentativegarmentoftheHanpeople,asitcanshowthefemininityandtemperamentoforientalladies.33古柏文档Main Characteristics shirt is not exposed(衫不露外衫不露外) the right-side lapel
23、of junction decorated with buttons(偏襟右衽以盘纽为饰偏襟右衽以盘纽为饰) clothing plus clothing(衣外加衣衣外加衣) increase waistcoat or jacket(增加坎肩或马褂增加坎肩或马褂)34古柏文档Main Characteristics clothes do not get the waist down(衣服上下不取腰身衣服上下不取腰身)Rectangular outline(外轮廓呈长方形外轮廓呈长方形) Horseshoe-shaped sleeve cover hand(马蹄袖盖手马蹄袖盖手) set rol
24、ling craft decoration(镶滚工艺装饰镶滚工艺装饰)flowerpot shoes(花盆鞋花盆鞋)35古柏文档36古柏文档37古柏文档The Chinese traditional costume Cheongsam38古柏文档ContentslThe definition of cheongsam lThe evolution of cheongsamlThe structure of cheongsamlRepresentative figures39古柏文档DefinitionQipao (Chi pao) is one of the most typical, tra
25、ditional costumes for Chinese women. Also known as cheongsam , it is like a wonderful flower in the Chinese colorful fashion scene because of its particular charm. 40古柏文档The evolutionThe late Qing Dynasty.In 1919, the Ordinance（法令法令） about garments（服装） was announced by the National Government and ch
26、eongsam was established to be the national garments.In 1920s In the early Republic of China, the cheongsam began to be popular again. 41古柏文档From the 1950s to 1960sIn 1950s and 1960s, cheongsams began to show up again in the peoples lives.From the 1930s to 1940s 1930s and 1940s saw the cheongsam in i
27、ts peak fashion. Golden Era Golden Era The evolution42古柏文档In modern times.Popular again now.From 1966 to 1976Cultural Revolution, disasterThe evolution43古柏文档Frog Frog 盘扣盘扣盘扣盘扣The structure立领立领襟襟衩衩Mandarin collar Mandarin collar 立领立领立领立领Lapel Lapel 襟襟襟襟Openings Openings 衩衩衩衩embroideryembroidery刺绣刺绣44
28、古柏文档The styleSleeves: wide sleeves, narrow and long sleeves, middle sleeves, short sleeves or sleeveless.Jin（襟）（襟）: round Jin, straight Jin, slanting Jin(斜襟斜襟), double Jin（双襟）（双襟）, Pipa Jin（琵琶襟）（琵琶襟）, and so on.Collar(领领): high collar, low collar，or collarless.Openings（开衩）（开衩）: high openings, low op
29、enings, no opening45古柏文档long sleevesshort sleeves sleeveless46古柏文档High collarCollarlessLow collar47古柏文档Representative figures张爱玲张爱玲 Eileen Chang (1920-1995) A well-known writer，be addicted to cheongsam.Life is a colorful gown, covered with lice. 48古柏文档宋美龄宋美龄Soong May-ling (1897-2003)First lady in Re
30、public of China.旗袍第一夫人旗袍第一夫人She owns the most number of qipao all over the world.49古柏文档邓丽君邓丽君Where there are Chinese there is her voice, she really made the beauty of the cheongsam, cheongsam accomplished her legend.50古柏文档 In the film In the Mood for Love（似水年华）（似水年华） ，Maggie Cheung （张曼玉）（张曼玉）change
31、more than 23 sets of qipao, after the movie release. It set off a rush of “cheongsam hot. Cheongsam reflects the elegant charm of oriental women51古柏文档52古柏文档玉玉脂脂白白Expo (展览会展览会)2010 Shanghai China 53古柏文档Cheongsam for Miss Manners青青花花瓷瓷宝蓝宝蓝54古柏文档Thank you!55古柏文档现代民族服饰现在，民族服饰是指各民族本身文化中独有特色的服饰，也可以称为地方服饰或
32、民俗服饰。由于我国民族众多，我今天重点介绍一下苗族服饰和白族服饰。苗族服饰是我国所有民族服饰中最为华丽的服饰，既是中华文化中的一朵奇葩，也是历史文化的瑰宝。56古柏文档Modern Ethnic ClothingNationaldressistheuniquecultureofthenationsownuniquecostumes,canalsobecalledlocaldressorfolkcostumes.Becauseofthemanyethnicgroupsinourcountry,IwillfocusontheMiaocostumeandBaiclothing.Miaocostume
33、arethemostgorgeouscostumesofallethnicgroupsinourcountry.ItisnotonlyawonderfulflowerinChineseculture,butalsoatreasureofhistoricalculture.57古柏文档Miao costume Pleatedcoat（对襟短衣） Widelegpants（宽腿裤）Pleatedskirtwithdifferentlength（长短不同的百褶裙） Colorfulheaddress（多姿多采的头饰）58古柏文档Miao costume Whitegown（白布长衫） Greencl
34、othpants（青布裤） Brightcolorofthewaistcoat（色泽艳丽的坎肩） Headbandtoweringfeathercrown（头带巍峨羽冠）59古柏文档白族崇尚白色，衣物以白色为贵。再配以色彩对比明快而映衬协调、挑绣精美的披挂，充分反映了白族人在服装艺术上的高度智慧。白族服饰60古柏文档Bai clothingBaiadvocatewhite,whiteclothesforyourclothes.Matchedwiththecontrastofbrightcolorandthebackgroundofcoordination,pickembroideredexqu
35、isitecloth,fullreflectstheBaipeopleintheclothingartofthehighdegreeofwisdom.61古柏文档Bai clothingThewhitescarf （白头巾）Redwaistcoat （红坎肩）Whiteshirt （白上衣）Embroidery“Hundredshoes” （绣花“百节鞋” ）62古柏文档Bai clothing Thewhitebreastedjacket （白色对襟衣） Blackcollarcoatjacket （黑领挂外套）Satincollarcoat （绸缎领褂）LittleanddaintyEmbroideredPurse （小巧玲珑的绣花荷包）63古柏文档
