《Buyer’s Market》由会员分享，可在线阅读，更多相关《Buyer’s Market（3页珍藏版）》请在金锄头文库上搜索。
1、Buyers Market孙佳慧ProfessionalfashionbuyersuseapassionforChinesedesigntomaketheirhobbyavocation“Thesoulofabuyershopisthetasteofitsbuyer，says31-year-oldXunBing，afashionbuyerwhonowownsboutiquesinSydneyandShanghai.Xunusedtodreamofbeingadesigner，butaftergettingherbachelorsdegreeinthesubject，shedevelopedan
2、interestinbusiness，andlookedforawaytocombineitwithhercreativity.“Itsnotonlyaboutsellingproducts，butpresentinganattitude，shetellsTWOCofhercurrentcareer，whichinvolvestrend-spottingandrecommendingpromisingbrandsanddesignerstoshopperswhovisitherstores.Inthefashionindustry，buyers买手“arethelinkconnectingbr
3、ands，saleschannels，andconsumers，HongHuang，fashioneditorandfounderofbuyerstoreBrandNewChina，toldLifeweekmagazinein2020.Untilrecentyears，though，buyersroleintheindustrywasprobablytheleastwell-understoodandnotonlybythepublic.“Throughbuyersandbuyershops，designerscanlearnmoreaboutthemarket，Hongexplained.H
4、owever，“lotsofindependentdesignersneverhaveanycontactwithcustomers，butjustopenalittleworkshopforfunandstayintheretailoringandcuttingalldayatmost，afriendoftheirsmightsay，Ilikeyourclothes，makeoneforme？Thisamateurismwasntjustbadfordesigners，ithinderedthespreadofChinesedesignstotheworld.“Ivebeencovering
5、Chinesedesignersforeightyears，butwhenreaderscalledtoask，Iminterestedinthatproductyoufeatured，whercanIbuyit？Ihadtosay，youcant，HongtoldLifeweek.“IrealizedIcoulddevotepagestoDesignedinChina，buttherewasstillarealdistancebeforeitcanbebroughttomarket.ProfessionalfashionbuyersfirstappearedinEuropehalfacent
6、uryago，andtoday，mostarestillemployedbyinternationallabelsordepartmentstores.Theirmainjobistoattendtradeshows，visitshowrooms，andflipthroughlookbookstosourcemarketablestylesanddesignerstosign.Itwasntlong，though，beforesomedecidedtostrikeoutontheirown，leadingtothecreationofmulti-brandstores，or“buyerbout
7、iques買手店inChinese.Operatinglikeaniche-marketpersonalshoppingservice，thesestorescuratesomepiecesfortheshowroom，buttheirrealtargetcustomersare“professionals，mostlywomenwhodontwanttoappearateventsinoutfitsthatclashwithanyoneelses，andrelyonbuyerstoscoutoutlittle-knownbrands，explainedHong.Mostare“second-
8、generationrichoroverseasreturnees，sheadded.HongsBrandNewChinahascooperatedwithatleast150Chinesedesigners，afarcryfromwhenChinasfirstbuyershopappearedinShanghaiin1996.ThebuyerindustryhadtakentimetodevelopinChina，withluxurymultibrandstoreGaleriesLafayettesfirstflagshipoutletclosingonlyoneyearafteritsde
9、butinBeijingin1997.LaneCrawfordsShanghaistoreopenedin2000andclosedin2020.Thatallchangedaround2020，thankstoChinasgrowingmiddleclasspickingupthetrend.Accordingtoa2004reportbyresearchfirmRETandFashionTrendDigest，fourtimesasmanybuyershopsopenedbetween2004and2004thantheprevious14yearscombined，withsomeeve
10、nappearingin“secondandthird-tiercities.By2004homegrownstoresaccountedfor55.6percentofthemainlandmarketforbuyerstores.“Middle-classconsumershavestartedtopursueindividualisticanddistinctivelabels，withtheirinterestgraduallyshiftingfrompopularmainstreamluxurybrandstothosethatexpressuniquepersonalities，o
11、pinedYeQizheng，editor-in-chiefofFashionTrendDigest，toJingDailyin2020.Thesebuyersinturncreatednewplatformsforlocaldesigners.In2020，BeijingsWudaoyingHutongsawtheopeningofDongLiang，amultibrandstorefeaturinghomegrowndesignsonly.Since2020，thestorehashostedthe“DongLiangOneDayshowatShanghaiFashionWeekevery
12、year，allowingChinesedesignerstoshowcasetheirwork.“WearelikeawindowforthefashionindustryfromabroadtolookatChinesecreativity，boastedco-founderTashaLiutoTimeOutin2020.Xunbelievesthatbuyerstoreslikehersareonthecuspofarevolution.“Customersmaybetiredofthesalesmodelindepartmentstores.onlineshopping，meanwhi
13、le，comeswithnoguaranteesofqualityorcustomerservice.ButnoteveryonesharesXunsoptimism.ChuChu，abrand-employedbuyerforStuartWeizman，withnineyearsexperienceinfashionindustry，tellsTWOCthat“successfulbuyershopsarenotascommonaspeoplethink.Theyrecently“boomedsimplybecausethereweresofewtobeginwith，and，asbuyer
14、SunYingtoldnewssiteJiemianin2020，mediahypehad“misledpeopletothinkitseasytorunabuyershop.“Mostbuyershopscanonlybeseenindevelopedregions，whichisfarfromenoughtocompetewithe-commerceplatforms，Chuadds.Taobaoandothere-marketplaces，inspiteoftheirreputationforunreliablequalityandcopying，maybebetteroratleast
15、lesscostlybridgesbetweenindependentdesignersandtheirmarket.Thismeansthatdespitetheoddsuccessfulshopthat“discoveredandprofitedbylaunchingthecareerofanunknowndesigner，moststillbowtomarketpressure.“Maybe10percentofthegoodsinthestorearetheretoshowthebuyersclassandtaste，butmakenoprofit，whiletheother90per
16、centfollowthemarketstrends，Chuestimates.Itsnotallbadnews，though.Thefactthatbuyershopsarecontinuingtoincreasemeanthat“Chinasdevelopingmarkethascultivatedmorematurecustomersanddiversifiedaesthetictastes，Chubelieves.ItonlyremainstobeseeniftheirappetitecanmatchthatofChinasbuyersorifthelatterhavebittenoffmorethantheycanchew.
