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1、Couture Sewing TechniqueClaire B.ShaefferPrinted in the United States of America,2001The book was originally published in hardcover in 1993 by The Taunton Press,Inc.Chapter4.Edge FinishesHems,Facings and BindingsUnless finished in some way, the edges of a garment ravel and look incomplete. These edg
2、esthe neckline; the vertical front edges of jackets, coats and many blouses; jackets and coatscan be finished in conspicuously or they can become distinctive, decorative elements of the design.Three finishes are used extensively in couture:hems, facings and bindings.The choice of edge finish depends
3、 on many thingsthe shape of the edge being finished; its position on the garment; the type, design and fabric of the garment; current fashion trends; and the preferences of the individual wearer and the designer. For example, if the bottom edge of a dress is straight, it might be completed with a he
4、m, a facing or a binding. But if this edges is asymmetrical, curved, scalloped or otherwise unusually shaped, it will need to be finished with a facing. Even when the edge is visually the same on the neckline and hem, the two different edges are likely to require slightly different finishes to accom
5、modate the curve at the neckline and the weight of the fabric at the hem. And although its obvious that a tailored garment would require very different finishing from an evening gown, even similar designs vorked in dissimilar fabrics would dictate finishes suitable for each fabric.Although hems, fac
6、ings and bindings are all edge finishes, each has a slightly different function. Hems are generally used on the lower edges of a garment or garment section (for example, a sleeve) and many help the garment hang attractively by adding weight to the edge. Facings, on the other hand, are applied to the
7、 upper and vertical edges of a garments. Bindings can be used on upper, lower or vertical edges, but theyre used most often to replace facings rather than hems.Facings can be cut as separate sections and sewn to the garment to finish curved or shaped edges. Or, when used on edges that are straight o
8、r only slightly curved, they can be nothing more than a wide hem allowance, in which case theyre called extended facings. Both hems and facings are visible on only one sideusually the undersideof the garment. Bindings, by contrast, are separate strips of fabric that encase the garment edge and finis
9、h both sides of the garment attractively.Because in couture the cost of labor and materials takes a back seat to the desired results, edges are not always finished with the simplest method or the one most often used in ready-to-wear construction or home sewing. Whatever the finishing method, hems, f
10、acings and bindings can be sewn entirely by hand or machine work. The hand work visible on the finished product, however, is only a fraction of the hand work used to finish the edges of the traditional couture garment. FACINGSFacings, like hems, are designed to finish the edge of the garment. Unlike
11、 hems, which hang free of the body and affect the garments hang more than its overall shape, faced edges frequently fit the bodys curves and subtly affect the garments silhouette. Used on garment openings, curved edges and shaped edges like jacket lapels, facings contribute significantly to an overa
12、ll impression of a well-constructed garment.There are three types of facings: extended, shaped and bias. Two of theseshaped and bias facingsare cut separately from the garment and can be sewn from self-fabric or lightweight lining fabrics. The extended facing is cut as an extension of the garment se
13、ction like a plain hem and is, of course, self-fabric.The extended facing is nothing more than a 1/2-in. to 2-in. hem and is sewn exactly like a plain hem (see pp. 63-64). When the garment edge is on the length-wise grain, the extended facing duplicates the shape and grain of the edge it faces. But
14、when the edge is slanted on a bias or has a slight curve, the facing cant duplicate the grain and may have to be eased, stretched or clipped to fit the edge smoothly.The extended facing is used extensively in couture because the folded edge of this facing is flatter and more supple than the seamed e
15、dges of shaped and bias facings and consequently drapes better. Edges with extended facings are generally interfaced and stabilized so that they maintain their original shape for the life of the garment.As its name suggests, the shaped facing is cut to duplicate the shape of the edge it faces and us
16、uslly duplicates the grain as well. This facing is often used on necklines and on edges intended to have a crisp, constructed look, and its always used on intricately shaped edges like a scalloped hem.The bias facing is a strip cut on the true bias. Because it doesnt duplicate the grain of the edge it faces, this facing must itself be shaped to fit the edge. Bias facings are made from lightwei
