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1、 Dan Barber: How I fell in love with a fish我一生中接触过很多鱼。 只有两种是我的最爱。 第一种， 是源于激情。 它是一条美丽的鱼， 美味，纹理细腻，肉质丰富， 是菜单上最受欢迎的鱼。 多么美的鱼啊！ （笑声） 更好的是， 它是依照最高标准养殖的， 目的是保持它的可持续性的。 而卖他的人也会感到心安理得。So, Ive known a lot of fish in my life. Ive loved only two. That first one, it was more like a passionate affair. It was a bea
2、utiful fish, flavorful, textured, meaty, a best-seller on the menu. What a fish. (Laughter) Even better, it was farm-raised to the supposed highest standards of sustainability. So you could feel good about selling it. 我曾经沉醉于这美丽的关系中， 时间大概延续了几个月。 有一天，这个公司的高层打电话给我 邀请我参加一个活动 并就渔业的可持续性发展发表演说。 我说，“当然可以”。
3、这个公司正是要试图解决一个 对于我们厨师来说正在变得不可想象的问题。 “我们如何把鱼类留在菜单上？”I was in a relationship with this beauty for several months. One day, the head of the company called and asked if Id speak at an event about the farms sustainability. Absolutely, I said. Here was a company trying to solve whats become this unimaginab
4、le problem for our chefs. How do we keep fish on our menus? 在过去的50年中， 我们从各个海洋中捕鱼 就像是砍伐树木。 绝不是夸大它的破坏性。 90%的大型鱼类，那些我们喜爱的种类， 金枪鱼，大比目鱼，三鲑鱼，剑鱼， 他们都要灭绝了。 几乎没有多少剩下了。 所以，不管是好是坏， 水产养殖业，养鱼业，都会成为我们未来的一部分。 有很多针对这个行业的言论。 其实它们大部分都是关于养鱼业会污染环境， 而且效率很低，比如说金枪鱼。 最大的弊病就是， 养殖金枪鱼的饲料转换率是 15比1。 这个意思是说，每生产1磅金枪鱼肉 要耗费15磅用其他野生
5、鱼类做的饲料。 这可不是很具有可持续发展性。 而且也不好吃。 For the past 50 years, weve been fishing the seas like we clear-cut forests. Its hard to overstate the destruction. 90 percent of large fish, the ones we love, the tunas, the halibuts, the salmons, swordfish, theyve collapsed. Theres almost nothing left. So, for better
6、 or for worse, aquaculture, fish farming, is going to be a part of our future. A lot of arguments against it. Fish farms pollute, most of them do anyway, and theyre inefficient, take tuna. A major drawback. Its got a feed conversion ratio of 15 to one. That means it takes fifteen pounds of wild fish
7、 to get you one pound of farm tuna. Not very sustainable. Doesnt taste very good either. 最后， 这个公司想做些正确事情。 我也想支持他们。 在那次活动的前一天， 我联系了公司的公关部门头头。 就让我们暂且称呼他为“唐阁下”。 So here, finally, was a company trying to do it right. I wanted to support them. The day before the event I called the head of PR for the comp
8、any. Lets call him Don. 我说：“唐阁下， 据我说知，事实是这样的，你们在海洋捕鱼业十分出名， 而且你们不会产生污染。”Don, I said, just to get the facts straight, you guys are famous for farming so far out to sea, you dont pollute. 他回应： “你说的对。我们作业的地点很远， 我们捕鱼所产生的污染物都被稀释掉了， 不会集中残留在一个地方。” 然后他补充到， “我们算得上是独树一帜。 饲料转换率？2.5比1，” 他说。 “行业中最好的。”Thats right,
9、 he said. Were so far out, the waste from our fish gets distributed, not concentrated. And then he added, Were basically a world unto ourselves. That feed conversion ratio? 2.5 to one, he said. Best in the business. 2.5比1，很好。 “什么2.5比1？你们在喂什么？” 他回答道：“可持续性蛋白质”。 2.5 to one, great. 2.5 to one what? What
10、 are you feeding? Sustainable proteins, he said. 我说：“很好”。然后挂了电话。 结果那晚，我躺在床上想： 可持续性蛋白质是什么鬼东西？ （笑声） Great, I said. Got off the phone. And that night, I was lying in bed, and I thought: What the hell is a sustainable protein? (Laughter) 所以第二天，就在那个活动之前，我打电话给唐阁下。 我问道：唐阁下，你有没有一些可持续性蛋白质的例子？So the next day,
11、 just before the event, I called Don. I said, Don, what are some examples of sustainable proteins? 他说他不知道。他会去问问周围的人。 然后，我和这个公司里的一些人通了电话。 但是没有人能给我一个明确的答案。 直到最后，我通上了电话 对方是生物学专家。 让我也暂且叫他 “唐阁下”。 （笑声）He said he didnt know. He would ask around. Well, I got on the phone with a few people in the company. No
12、 one could give me a straight answer. Until finally, I got on the phone with the head biologist. Lets call him Don too. (Laughter) 我说：“唐阁下” “可以举例说明一下可持续性蛋白质吗？” 恩，他提到了一些藻类 还有一些鱼食， 然后他提到鸡丸。 我问道： “鸡丸?” 他说，“是，羽毛，鸡皮， 骨骼，排泄物， 被晒干加工后添入饲料。Don, I said, what are some examples of sustainable proteins? Well, he
13、 mentioned some algaes and some fish meals, and then he said chicken pellets. I said, Chicken pellets? He said, Yeah, feathers, skin, bone meal, scraps, dried and processed into feed. 我说：“鸡在饲料中的比例 是多少？” 想一下，你知道，2%。 结果他说：“恩，大概占30%，” 我说，“唐阁下，用鸡喂鱼， 这算什么可持续发展性？” （笑声） 电话的那边安静了很长时间， 然后他对我说， “世界上就是有太多的鸡了。”
14、 （笑声） I said, What percentage of your feed is chicken? thinking, you know, two percent. Well, its about 30 percent, he said. I said, Don, whats sustainable about feeding chicken to fish? (Laughter) There was a long pause on the line, and he said, theres just too much chicken in the world. (Laughter)
15、 于是，我不再爱这个鱼了。 （笑声） 不，不是因为我是个自以为是， 伪善的美食家。 其实我是这样的人。 （笑声） 不，我不再爱这个鱼了，是因为，我向上帝发誓， 在那次对话之后，那个鱼尝起来更像鸡。 （笑声） I fell out of love with this fish. (Laughter) No, not because Im some self-righteous, goody-two shoes foodie. I actually am. (Laughter) No, I actually fell out of love with this fish because, I sw
16、ear to God, after that conversation, the fish tasted like chicken. (Laughter) 这第二条鱼， 它则是另一种不同的爱情故事。 是很浪漫的那种， 那种你越多了解你的鱼， 你就越爱它。 我第一次在一个饭店中吃到这种鱼， 位置在西班牙南部。 很久以前一个记者朋友和我说过这里。 她可以说是个媒人。 （笑声） 那条鱼在桌子上 很亮，有着光晕，白色的那种。 厨师烹饪它的时间过长了。 好像是烹饪了两次。 但是太神奇了，它还是很好吃。 This second fish, its a different kind of love story. Its the romantic kind, the kind
