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1、Snowsports Construction StandardsFall 2007 and Forward滑雪衣做工標準07年秋開始Please refer to each style for any constructions deviating from the standards.做工與標準不符的請按每款的具體要求處理 If you have any questions, contact Ligia Ferrey (ligia_ferreyvfc ), Kassie Maurer (kassie_maurervfc ) or Linda Chung (linda_chungvfc )D
2、ate Originated: September, 20052021/11/301Table of ContentsSewing Specifications 縫紉說明 Stitching pg. 3 （第三頁） 車線 Tacking pg. 4 固定 Bartacking pg. 5 打結 General Features 一般做工說明 Common Features pg. 6 一般做工說明 Insulations pg. 7 絕緣設置 Shockcord Attachment pg. 8 繩扣做工 Zipper Cover Standards pg. 9 10 拉鏈蓋布標準 Label
3、 and Hangtag Placement pg. 11 14 標及吊卡的位置 Logo Placement pg. 15 16 Logo 的位置Jacket Features 夾克做工要求 CF Closure pg. 17 前中開口 TriClimate features pg. 18 19 兩件式夾克做工 Hoods pg. 20 24 帽子 Pockets pg. 25 28 口袋 Venting pg. 29 通風處做工 Cuff pg. 30- 31 袖口 Sleeve Articulation pg. 32 袖子 RECCO placement pg. 32 RECCO的位置
4、Hem Adjustment pg. 33- 35 下擺 Powderskirt pg. 36- 38 下擺擋風片Pant Features 褲子做工要求 CF Closure pg. 39 前中開口 Waistband pg. 40 41 腰頭 Pockets pg. 42 口袋 Vents pg. 43 通風處做工 Knee Articulation pg. 44 膝蓋 Edgeguards / Bindings pg. 46 包邊 Linings and Leg Gaitors pg. 45 腳口綁腿力做工 RECCO placement pg. 47 RECCO的位置 Revision
5、s 回顧Last page 最後一頁2021/11/302Stitching Standards: 車線說明Top stitching to be 12 SPI 車線請用12 SPI車線Use Poly Core Thread for garment construction and topstitching unless otherwise indicated.除非特殊說明,衣服縫製請都用POLY 包芯線.Overlock, Flat Lock and Cover stitch to be 12 SPI 拷克，平車及三本車都用 12SPI車線Pre-Stitch and Stay stitc
6、h to be 9-11 SPI, depending on the usage. 根據用途,起針和回針用 9-11 SPIAll lining fabric (that can potentially fray) should have its interior raw edges joined with 4 thread safety stitch.所有有可能磨破的裡布,布邊都要用4線拷克拷過Cover stitch to be used on stretch mesh fabric seams. 有彈力的網布縫份用三本車All stretchy fabrics should use 4
7、thread safety for all join seams. (Cannot use lockstitch as it will cause popping and open seam.)所有有彈性布的拼合縫份都要用4線拷克.Chain-stitch is not used unless otherwise specified on Construction Details page.沒有特殊說明,做工細則裡的則不使用鎖鏈車. Back tack stitching shall be 3 stitches long for security.為平安考慮，回針至少要有3針長.All thr
8、ead color to be DTM for all color blocking panels unless otherwise specified.如沒有特殊說明，所有剪接用線應為同布色For non-Gore products use 22mm seam tape for all critical seams. Use 17mm seam tape for all non-critical seams, unless otherwise stated.除非特殊說明,款式的關鍵部位剪接線,使用22mm寬的防水貼條,非關鍵部位剪接線,使用17mm寬的防水貼條Vivian remarks-關
9、鍵部位:上衣:前中/外長/領圍 長褲:前後擋/內外長 非關鍵部位:袖攏及其他剪接線 開發時先按客人規定如有不能貼合或是寬度貼上去有問題要先與客人聯繫. Logo 局部的防水貼條,需提供廠商加寬後長x寬的尺寸,訂購整塊四周圓角的防水貼條,直接熱壓上LogoSeam Seal Taping should be centered over seam stitching. Cross over seams should be re-pressed. 防水貼條要貼在縫份中間，十字重疊處要用機器重複加溫加壓.Bartack use Tex 27 Perma Spun Thread, 42 SPIs, 3/
10、8 length. 打結用Tex 27 Perma 的車線，42SPI,打結長3/8.Sewing Specifications 縫紉說明2021/11/303Tacking Standards: 固定標準For Gore-tex Shell jackets: All linings to be tacked onto shell by Z-liner. Gore-tex款式,所有裡布要用Z-liner固定在表布上Vivian remarks-Z-liner:一種特殊的布種,可用防水膠袋直接貼上去For Non-Gore Shell jackets: All linings to be swa
11、g tacked onto shell by stripes of self shell fabric. 非Gore-tex要使用本布固定表裡布The tacking points are: 表裡固定點位置CB Neck on Taped jackets. Entire neck seam on non-taping garments. 有防水貼條的衣服只需固定于后中領圍，沒有防水貼條的衣服固定于全部領圍線High point shoulders 領肩點Sleeve Caps. (No need for raglan sleeve) 袖肩點拉格蘭袖不用Under armholes 袖籠底端El
12、bows. (Depending on design)肘部按不同設計而定Lower forearm seam 6 8 from cuff edge. (Depending on design)前臂下端距袖口剪接6 8 按不同設計而定5 7 from hood brim edge at hood run seam. (Depending on design)帽剪接在距帽沿5 7 處按不同設計而定At waist points for styles with free hanging lining. 自由懸垂的裡布固定在腰剪接處All pocket bags should be sewn, tac
13、ked, or swag tacked their upper or functional corners.所有口袋都需縫製或者固定在其上端或角落處Vivian remarks-固定布條須直接與剪接線車合一起,再貼膠條.(固定布條處不需測水壓.) 布料薄:固定布條對折. 布料厚:固定布條單層即可不須對折.Sewing Specifications 縫紉細則帽沿往帽中縫份57“處領肩點肩點腋下點肘點(請根據設計)下臂點(請根據設計)腰頭整個後領圍線2021/11/304Sewing Specifications縫紉細則Bartacking Standards:打結標準All pocket ope
14、nings, flaps, vents and zipper ends shall have bartacks. 所有口袋開口，擋風片，蓋排，透氣孔以及拉鏈兩端都要打結When bartacking an exposed PU zipper, the bartack should be hidden under die cut shell. 當拉鍊為露齒PU拉鏈時，打結需隱藏在大身布下如圖一 Keep bartack exposed when infusion is around the perimeter of the zipper. Be sure to place the bartack
15、 as close to the bottom of zipper as possible. 當拉鏈周邊有粘合膠時，打結要外露，而且要盡量靠近拉鏈底端如圖二The bartack dimension to be W 1/16 x L 3/8. The length can be extended to whenever necessary. 3 pass bartack for weak fabrics. 打結尺寸W*H: 1/16 x 3/8, 需要的時候長度可以加長到，防水拉鍊尾端用平車來回車3次加固.圖一 圖二 隱藏打結用在外露式拉鍊外露式打結用在拉鏈四周有貼裝飾膠Vivian rema
16、rks-客人建議用平車來回加固3次比打結好)2021/11/305General Features 總體做工要求Common Features:總體做工要求All eyelets and grommets should be reinforced by shell fabric or washer, whichever most suitable.合適的時候，所有G眼需用本布或塑膠墊片加強.(eyelet & gromment都是指G眼)Grommet size 4.2 mm with single 2.5 mm shockcord. 4.2mm(應是指內徑)的G眼使用2.5mm的繩. Grommet size 5.6 mm with single 3 mm shockcord or with double 2.5 mm shockcords. 5.6mm的G眼使用3mm的繩. 或雙倍2.5mm 寬的繩.(shochcords =繩的統稱)If applicable, use appropriate sized washer with metal snaps for satisfact
