1高度合体连身袖结构研究 摘 要 高度合体连身袖结构，是一种采用高度合体延展式腋下插片与和公主线相结合造型的连身袖结构，是连身袖结构体系中最为合体的一类论文在已有连身袖结构和高度合体装袖结构理论成果的基础上，首次提出了“高度合体连身袖结构”这一名称，通过比较连身袖结构与装袖结构造型方式的异同，总结两者的造型规律，得出高度合体连身袖结构的造型原理、高度合体连身袖原型，并研究了原型的结构变化，最后将高度合体连身袖结构应用于中式服装设计论文的理论研究成果，通过实验环节制成样衣，作进一步修正，并以实物的形式进行展示 关键词：高度合体连身袖结构 造型原理 原型 结构图 应用 2THE RESEACH OF THE CLOSE FITTING KIMONO SLEEVE STRUCTURE ABSTRACT In my thesis, I put forward the name of “the close fitting kimono sleeve structure”for the first time.The close fitting underarm guesset、 the armscye princess and sleeve cut in one constitute the the close fitting kimono sleeve structure.It is the closest fitting one in the kimono structure system. I systemic research its shape Principle、prototype and varieties of the prototype,which is based on the theoretics of kimono sleeve、the armscye sleeve and the comparison of them,then apply the close fitting kimono sleeve structure in practice—fashion design of Chinese style.The conclusion from above theories study is revised and validated according my experiment, the real object of the result is shown as the research production. KEY WORDS: the Close fitting kimono sleeve structure; Shape principle; prototype;structure graphics;Application 3目 录 第一章 导言........................................................................................................................................................ 1 1.1 论文的目的和意义................................................................................................................................ 1 1.2 国内外研究现状.................................................................................................................................... 1 1.3 论文的主要内容.................................................................................................................................... 1 第二章 连身袖结构概论.................................................................................................................................... 3 2.1 引言........................................................................................................................................................ 3 2.2 连身袖结构的分类方法........................................................................................................................ 3 2.3 连身袖结构分类解析............................................................................................................................ 4 2.3.1 一片袖连身袖结构..................................................................................................................... 4 2.3.2 两片袖连身袖结构..................................................................................................................... 5 2.4 高度合体连身袖结构............................................................................................................................ 6 2.4.1 高度合体连身袖结构的造型特征............................................................................................. 6 2.4.2“高度合体连身袖结构”这一命名的依据 ................................................................................ 7 2.4.3 高度合体连身袖的结构中插片的功能性................................................................................. 7 第三章 以服装造型为目的的人体结构与人体测量分析................................................................................ 8 3.1 上肢人体结构及其活动机能性与服装结构设计的关系.................................................................... 8 3.1.1 肩部结构和运动与服装造型的关系......................................................................................... 8 3.1.2 手臂结构和运动与服装造型的关系......................................................................................... 9 3.2 标准人体测量数据及成衣号型规格参照表分析.............................................................................. 10 3.2.1 以日本标准人体测量数据和成衣规格参照表为参照的原因 ............................................... 10 3.2.2 对人体的普测数据平均值的研究........................................................................................... 10 3.2.3 日本 JIS 服装号型规格.............................................................................................................11 3.3 选取试衣模特并对其进行测量.......................................................................................................... 12 3.3.1 测量项目、测量方法（表 3） .............................................................................................. 12 3.3.2 测量时的注意事项................................................................................................................... 13 3.3.3 测量结果................................................................................................................................... 14 3.3.4 人体测量对服装结构设计的重要性....................................................................................... 14 第四章 高度合体连身袖结构的造型原理...................................................................................................... 15 4.1 连身袖结构与装袖结构造型方式的比较.......................................................................................... 15 4.1.1 袖窿部位造型方式的比较.........................................................................................。
