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1、鞋面與大底成型 ASSEMBLE UPPER&O/S,依照鞋子結構的不同, 通常分車中底與結幫兩種成型流程: According to the different shoe construction, there are two kinds of assembly procedure ,strobel & lasting. 結幫流程又分為一次流程及兩次流程或多次流程. For the lasting construction, there are 3kinds of procedure ,one time lasting & two times lasting or more than two
2、 time lasting. 這裡僅以一次結幫流程為例,了解成型的過程: Here only show the one time lasting procedure for example to know the assembly procedure:,1. 浸 康 特 SOAK TR COUNTER,1,浸康特時注意康特角不要浸膠。 Pay more attention to the bottom of TR counter cant be soaked. 2用鑷子夾住康特放入513藥水中,只要除康特腳外其他部分有碰到膠水,就馬上取出來.浸膠不宜過久過久會使康特軟化。 Clip the co
3、unter with forceps and then put it into 513 primer . Dont soak counter too long to avoid the counter from soften. 3康特浸好后需放在鐵綱滴干。 Put the counter on the iron shelf after soaking. 4康特擺放鐵架上涼干時不宜過久,不要超過15分鐘。 Make the counter dry not more than 15 minutes. 5.操作員應戴上手套及口罩等環保用品. The operator should wear the
4、safe things of glove & respirator.,Applied Tooling:,鐵網 Iron meshwork,手套 Glove,鑷子 forceps,鐵架 Iron shelf,1,從裝鞋面的車架上取下鞋面,貼上流水標以便配雙作業,剪斷連線,放鞋面入流水帶上. Take the upper from the shelf and attach pair number sticker, then snip the thread that make one pair of upper together, at last put upper on conveyer belt
5、. 2,剪線時不要剪到鞋面. Dont break the upper when snip thread. 3.注意鞋面要配雙. Note: Need make the upper pair.,2.准備放鞋面 PREPARE UPPER,Applied Tooling:,剪刀 scissor,1.取一小塊泡棉,對折好再夾在夾子上,刷膠時將泡棉在膠水裡浸一下. Prepare a little piece of foam or cloth and fold then nip it with clamp. Soak a moment before cementing. 2.從裝楦頭的車上取下楦頭,
6、將楦頭底面周圍10MM寬刷白膠 Take the last from the shelf , then cement around last bottom 10mm width with latex. 3,刷膠時左手握楦頭,右手拿夾子.刷膠要均勻到位. During cementing ,the left hand hold the last & the right hand hold clamp. Make sure to cement evenly and completely. 4.操作員應戴上口罩等環保用品. The operator should wear the safe thin
7、gs of respirators.,3.楦頭底刷白膠 CEMENT LAST BOTTOM WITH LATEX,Applied Tooling:,夾子Clamp,膠壺 Glue pot,4.中底正面刷白水膠 CEMENT THE INSOLE BOARD,1.中底整形,壓力30KG,時間5”. Mold the insole board with pressure 30kg & time 5”. 2,刷膠前將中底板排放整齊,左手壓住中底板,右手拿刷子. Before cementing ,the left hand hold the last & the right hand hold c
8、lamp. 3.用刷子沿中底上面周圍15MM寬刷白膠,刷膠要均勻到位. Take the insole board from the shelf , then cement around the top of insole board 15mm width with latex. Make sure to cement evenly and completely. 4.操作員應戴上口罩等環保用品. The operator should wear the safe things of respirators.,Applied Tooling:,夾子Clamp,膠壺 Glue pot,5.鞋面後
9、跟刷膠 CEMENT HEEL UPPER,1.滾里及鞋面後跟兩邊擦黃膠,膠水要均勻,到位.不可積膠. Cement the both sides of collar lining and heel upper with 766N yellow glue. Make sure to cement evenly & completely but not amass into a pile. 2,刷好膠的鞋面按規定在流水線上排放整齊, 保持順暢的流程,流進烘箱。 Put the upper on the conveyer belt in order to keep the procedure sm
10、ooth through oven after cement. 3.設定烘箱的溫度為70度,時間1分鐘. Adjust the temperature 70 & time 1min . 4.過此烘箱的作用是烘干膠水,軟化鞋面. Let glue dry & soften the upper through the oven.,Applied Tooling:,刷子Brush,膠壺 Glue pot,鞋面後跟/滾裡刷膠,過烘箱,6.貼後跟康特 ATTACHE HEEL COUNTER,1.左手拿鞋面右手拉開內里.左手拿鞋面,右手如圖所示拿康特,先使康特腳平齊畫線,對准后跟中心點并貼死,再壓康特的
11、上沿固定. Left hand hold the upper, and the right hand undraw the collar lining. The left still hand hold the upper, and the right hand hold the counter as shown on the illustration No.2 . At first make the bottom edge of counter align the mark line & center mark, and press the bottom center portion of
12、counter, then press the top center portion of it to fix the center position. 3.右手從中心點向兩邊固定康特下沿. Press the counter bottom from the center portion to both sides. 4.5,固定康特外腰及內腰. Attach the lateral & medial portion of counter. 6.貼滾口內裡並摸平. At last attach the collar lining & make it smooth.,4,固定康特外腰,3,固定康
13、特下沿,5,固定康特內腰,2,固定后跟中心點,1,后跟滾里與鞋面須拉順,6,滾里貼死并摸平,7.後跟康特整形 MOLD HEEL COUNTER,1,裝上正確的定型模.通常熱熔膠港寶用冷定型,康特用熱定型,溫度大約60度,壓力5KG,時間大約8”. Set up the correct molding mold. Commonly for hot melt counter use the cool mold, for TR counter use the heat mold with temp 60 & pressure 5kg & time 8 sec. 2.將裝好康特的鞋面,分左右腳放在相
14、應的定型模上. Put the left & right upper with counter on the proper mould specially . 3.使鞋面後跟中心對准後定型模的中心,再整型. Need back stitch 3-4 stitches on the start & stop stitching portion.,定型機 Back molding machine,定型模 Molding mold,Applied Tooling:,8.貼中底 ATTACH INSOLE,1,左手拿楦頭,右手拿中底,將中底中心點對准楦頭中心點,從後跟往前貼. The left han
15、d hold the last to make up the bottom, and the right hand hold the insole to make the center match the last, then attach the insole on last from heel to front . 2.確保中底弧度與楦頭弧度相吻合. Make sure the insole fit with last.,9.鞋面余皮刷膠 CEMENT THE TOE LAST ALLOWANCE,1.通常對於一次流程的鞋面,均用白水膠刷鞋面余皮.對於多次流程的鞋面,均用PU膠刷鞋面余皮.
16、 Commonly for the shoe that only need be lasted one time, cement the last allowance with latex. For the shoe that need be lasted more than one, cement the last allowance with PU glue. 2,左手拿鞋面,右手拿刷子.刷鞋面頭莊余皮10mm寬. The left hand hold the upper, and the right hand hold the brush ,cement the toe last allowance with width 10mm. 3,刷膠要到位,均勻,但不能刷太高也不能溢膠.刷膠後放入流水線,送進烘箱. Cementing should be complete & even but not too high or come out. Put it on the conveyer belt through the oven after cemen
