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1、鞋业验货培训 Footwear Inspection TrainingTraining Info鞋业验货培训培训目标 了解制鞋的基本材料 鞋通常部件及其名称 认识鞋业通用尺码标准 熟悉鞋业检验的大体流程及标准 鞋业常见问题描述 了解鞋业生产流程 鞋业包装Summary制鞋基本材料材料分类 Material Classify 材料描述 Material DescriptionShoe inspection 材料用途分类 按作用分主料/面料;辅料 按来源分真皮;人造皮/革Shoe inspection基本材料描述 真皮: 牛皮Hide; 袋鼠皮Kangaroo; 猪皮Pigskin 鳄鱼皮Croc
2、odile Leather 基本材料描述牛皮Hide分四层:面皮/表皮(物性最佳);榔皮(二榔皮);牛巴戈皮;反毛皮Leather 皮革剖层一般用在鞋包上的动物皮有: 大牛皮最多三层; 小牛皮一层; 羊皮两层 ; 猪皮两层; 驼鸟皮/兔皮/蛇皮/蜥蜴皮/ 鳄鱼皮一层. 象皮 国外的大牛皮7层都可以的，国内的3-5 层是没问题，所谓剖层革即如此Material 基本材料描述 一张牛皮分五个部分 颈部(Neck) 肩部(Shoulder) 背部(Butt物性最佳) 腹部(Belly) 腿部(Shanks)Leather基本材料描述 人造材料 人造革Leatheroid-面料 网布Mesh-面料 泡
3、棉Sponge(海绵)-填充料 帆布Canvas-补强料(有些鞋型 亦做面料)Man-made material基本材料描述网布 鞋Man-made material部件名称-运动鞋 Sports shoe部件名称男鞋 Mens shoe部件名称女鞋 Ladies shoe部件名称女鞋 Ladies shoe部件名称凉鞋 Sandal 鞋业部件 Swoosh(腰补强)标示: 品牌Logo,美观补强: 防止鞋腰位塌陷,变 形Swoosh鞋业部件Adidas Li ningSwoosh鞋业部件Converse AntaSwoosh部件名称Shoe component鞋面Upper泡绵Foam空气垫
4、Airbag前片Tip补强Reinforcement邦迪线Bonding Thread鞋头Vamp/Toe冲孔Punch鞋舌泡绵Tongue Foam外后蹄Foxing内里Lining领口泡绵Coller Foam鞋羽Quarter饰片stripe鞋羽内里Quarter Lining防泥片Mud Guard松紧带Gore鞋羽外Lateral Quarter鞋舌Tongue鞋眼Eyelet鞋羽内Medial Quarter外领口Coller鞋眼片Eyestay魔术带 上Velcro Hook本底Uni-sole鞋眼织带Eyestay Laceloop魔术带 下Velcro Loop中底Mid-s
5、ole楦头Last铝制鞋眼Al-eyelet大底Out-sole港宝Counter饰线Ornamental鞋垫Sock liner鞋带Lace腰补强Swoosh中插Wedge后跟Heel内径IDS部件名称-附录 Shoe component鞋业尺码-NikeNike男鞋尺码厘米CM24.524.52525.52626.52727.52828.5 中国码 CHI38.5394040.5414242.5434444.5英国码UK55.566.577.588.599.5美国码US66.577.588.599.51010.5Nike sizeNike女鞋尺码厘米CM222222.52323.52424
6、.52525.526 中国码 CHI3535.53636.537.53838.5394040.5 英国码 UK22.533.544.555.566.5 美国码 US4.555.566.577.588.59运动鞋尺码还有 欧洲EUR 法国FR 巴西码BR 日本码JAP国家或地区 英文名字的缩写 男鞋 US-UK=1.0 女鞋 US-UK=2.5 如同时有多个尺码，要 全看，以防码数代用。 男鞋8码代女鞋8码Size鞋业尺码英国码 最小码长4英寸,每码依次递增1/3英寸(半 码增加1/6英寸) 到3码时尺寸为8-1/3英寸 然后重新开始于1码,长度8-2/3英寸,与上 面一样没码递增1/3英寸 不
7、同的鞋型,相同的码数,有不同的周长 (girth).在英国码中,可以假定为,当长度增 加1/3英寸时,周长增加1/4英寸UK SIZE欧洲鞋楦规格表Europe last sheetSIZE39#40#41#42#43#44#Length 260.68267.34274.0280.6300.6293.9Ball214.48219.48224.4229.4244.4239.4Instep244.00249.00254259274269Waist237.65242.65247.6252.6267.6262.6欧洲鞋楦规格表 Mans（m/m）SIZE39#40#41#42#43#44#Length
8、 260.68267.34274.0280.6300.6293.9Ball214.48219.48224.4229.4244.4239.4Instep244.00249.00254259274269Waist237.65242.65247.6252.6267.6262.6欧洲鞋楦规格表 LADY（m/m）SIZE35#36#37#38#39#40#Length 226.6233.3240246.6253.3259.9Ball202.7207.7212.7217.7222.7227.7Instep212.7217.2222.2227.7237.7242.7Waist205.9210.9215.9
9、220.9225.9230.9欧洲鞋楦规格表Children (m/m） SIZE35#36#37#38#39#40#Length 226.6233.3240246.6253.3259.9Ball202.7207.7212.7217.7222.7227.7Instep212.7217.2222.2227.7237.7242.7Waist205.9210.9215.9220.9225.9230.9各国鞋尺寸对比 中国码码法国码美国码英国码日本码22344.532223365.5423243875.524254086.525.526429.5826.52744119.527.5Footware S
10、ize 鞋业尺码 Footware Checking尺码标准 脚长 鞋垫 鞋长 比如：42码的鞋,鞋垫27cm,鞋底29cm,适 合25-26cm脚长的人穿. 一般鞋子里面标的鞋码为鞋垫长(即内径 长IDS),人脚要比鞋垫小1cm左右. 测量码数为:测内径,用长IDS仪器测,然后 电脑扫描.Size measure鞋业生产工艺 有很多方法可以将鞋面和底组装起来,但通常只有以 下几中方法是常用的 胶粘Cement construction 车缝Stitch construction 1. stitch down 2. Goodyear stitch 模压Molded construction1.
11、 硫化Vulcanized 2. 注压Direct injection Footwear construction胶水黏结 鞋面包附于楦头上,压平顺,然后贴上过胶的 鞋垫.最后将大底粘于鞋垫与鞋面的底部.The upper is place on the last, then pulled down and turned on to the insole and attached by adhesive. Then the outsole is cemented to the bottom of the lasted shoe.在底和免的粘合过程中,通常要加热,使胶水 活化.Bonding t
12、he sole of the upper by means of a cement, usually heat and pressure activated. Cement construction胶粘鞋生产工艺Manufacturing process Stitch down construction ? 先将鞋面翻开,抓紧贴于大底,用线车缝起来,通常情况下, 为了鞋子外形的美观,在大底的上沿要贴上饰条.Type of shoe construction in which the upper is turned out and fastened to the sole by stitchin
13、g .Usually an overlay welt if attached at the same time at the top of the sole edge to give it better shape. 鞋面的底部向外折,掣缝在底或者鞋垫上?The bottom edge of the upper is folded outward and stitched to the sole or insole.Stitching constructionManufacturing workmanshipStitch Construction 一种传统的制作方法,可以提供舒适,牢固,防水,
14、 修理道具的鞋子,制作重点是鞋面成型与楦头上, 车缝上一条皮革或者welt?以做保护,最后在底上 贴一个welt?. A traditional method of manufacturing, which provides a shoe that will give comfort, excellent comfort, excellent shape retention, water resistance and repairable properties. The essence of this construction is that the upper is shaped over
15、the last and secured by sewing a strip of leather or “welt “ to the upper and inner sole. The process is then completed by attaching a sole to the welt.Goodyear welt construction线缝沿条鞋生产工艺线缝沿条鞋生产工艺模压鞋生产工艺 模压鞋 此过程,底被机器直接热封于鞋面上In this construction, sole are directly heat-sealed to the upper by machine Manufacturing workmanship模压鞋生产工艺Molded construction注压鞋生产工艺Direct injection硫化鞋生产工艺Vulcanized 鞋业说明书 所有类型的鞋,都是由很多中材料制作 而成.传统上大多数产品都有一个关于 鞋子部件成分的指示标.销售商有责任 保证卖出的鞋子符合指示标上的信息 Shoes, and other types of footwear, can be made from a variety of materials and traditionally most products have be
