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1、 王大仁能扮演好一仆二主的角色吗？ Alexander Wang, Serving Two Masters来源：纽约时报 2014-09-17 07:41:34The list of what the 30-year-old designer Alexander Wang does not look like is long. 30 岁的设计师王大仁(Alexander Wang)让人出乎意料的地方还真不少。 He does not look, at first glance, like a symbolic figure. He does not look like someone who
2、could change the prevailing wisdom of his industry. He does not look like the boss of a storied Parisian atelier. He does not look like a facile juggler of brands, people and responsibilities. He does not look like a lightning rod. And he does not look like a Ping-Pong ball, although he claims to oc
3、casionally identify with the concept. 第一眼看上去，他并不 像是一位标志性人物；不像是一位能改变时尚业共识的人物；不像是一位拥有一间名声显 赫的巴黎工作室的人；不像是一位能在多个品牌、各色人等和繁忙事务之间游刃有余的多 面手；不像是一个毁誉加身的人物；他更不像一个乒乓球，尽管他自称偶尔会对这个概念 感到心有戚戚焉。 What he does look like is a chirpy, black-clad club kid with a messy ponytail. But if fashion teaches us anything, it is t
4、hat appearances can be deceiving. Because Mr. Wang is all of the above. 他看起来就是个活力十足的时尚潮人，一身黑色打扮、梳着个乱糟糟 的马尾辫 。但是，如果时尚业教给了我们任何事情的话，那就是人不可貌相，因为他就是 集以上种种角色于一身的人物。 In 2012, five years after inaugurating his eponymous brand and becoming a darling of the New York contemporary fashion scene, Mr. Wang shocke
5、d the fashion world when he was also named the creative director of Balenciaga, becoming not only the first American designer in over a decade to run a heritage French name, but the first designer since the recession to attempt to run two houses and the first since John Galliano, the artistic direct
6、or of Christian Dior, blamed his 2011 drug-and-alcohol-fueled implosion on the pressures of running both Dior and his own brand. 在推出自己的同名品牌并成为纽约时尚界的新宠五年之后，王 大仁于 2012 年被命名为法国品牌巴黎世家(Balenciaga)的创意总监，再次震撼了时尚界。他 不但成为十多年来首位执掌法国老店的美国籍创意总监，而且是上一轮经济危机之后首位 试图同时领导两个品牌的设计师。上一位这么做的是克里斯汀迪奥(Christian Dior)艺术总 监约翰
7、加利亚诺（John Galliano，他于 2011 年在巴黎一家酒吧内，在毒品和酒精的双重 作用下大发反犹言论，后遭解雇译注） ，而后者把自己的出格行为归咎于兼顾克里斯 汀迪奥和自己的品牌所带来的巨大压力。 Now Mr. Wang spends his time flying between Paris and New York; a TriBeCa apartment and a five-star hotel in the 16th Arrondissement of Paris; his home country and a country where he does not und
8、erstand the language; the worlds of a family owned independent company and the world of a giant conglomerate (Balenciaga is owned by Kering, the French luxury group that also owns Saint Laurent, Gucci and Alexander McQueen, among other brands). And in doing so, he has become the poster boy for a ren
9、ewed debate in the fashion world. 现在，王大仁在纽约和巴黎之间来回穿梭，在纽约时住在自己位于翠贝卡区的公寓，到巴黎则下榻第 16 区的一家五星级酒店。他生长在美国，并不懂法语；他自己的品牌是家族拥 有的独立公司，而巴黎世家则是一个庞大集团的下属品牌（巴黎世家母公司是法国奢侈品 业巨头开云集团Kering，旗下还有圣洛朗Saint Laurent、古奇Gucci、亚历山大麦昆 Alexander McQueen等品牌） 。领导两个品牌使他成为时尚界新一轮的招牌争议人物。 “The million-dollar question is how much is on
10、e designer able to have two mind- sets?” said Robert Burke, the founder of an eponymous luxury brand consultancy and a former fashion director of Bergdorf Goodman. “人人都关心的问题是：一位设计师在多大 的程度上能拥有两种设计理念？”罗伯特博克(Robert Burke)说。博克经营着以自己名字 命名的自创奢侈品牌咨询公司，他曾经是伯格多夫古德曼百货公司(Bergdorf Goodman)的 时尚总监。As he enters hi
11、s fourth season as a dual citizen with spring-summer ready-to-wear, Mr. Wang, who has also taken on designing a third collection for H Herms, which recently switched strategies and appointed its first womens wear artistic director in 14 years not to have another brand; and Riccardo Tisci, who closed
12、 his own brand when he joined Givenchy in 2005. 这些问题的回答分为两 派。一派认为，只有把精力专注在一个品牌上，才是保证成功的不二之法。持这种观点的 有马克雅可布(Marc Jacobs)他在去年十月份离开了供职 16 年之久的路易威登(Louis Vuitton)以专注自己的品牌；爱马仕则在最近改变了策略，任命了 14 年来第一位女装艺术 总监，并不再发展别的品牌；里卡多蒂西(Riccardo Tisci)在 2005 年加入纪梵希时也关闭 了自己品牌。On the other are a growing group of new-gen na
13、mes who, like Mr. Wang, believe two can be better than one. Jonathan Anderson, who turns 30 this month, was appointed creative director of Loewe last autumn and will maintain his eponymous brand; 31-year-old Jason Wu, founder of his own brand, was also appointed creative director of Hugo Boss womens
14、 wear in June of 2013; Zac Posen, 33, founder of his own brand, is, as of this summer, also creative director of Brooks Brothers womens wear; and Jeremy Scott, 39, took on Moschino as well as his own brand last year. 而另一派则认为两个比一个好。持这种观点的人大多数是像 王大仁一样的新生代，他们的人数在不断扩大。这个月刚 30 岁的乔纳森安德森(Jonathan Anderson)
15、就是其中一位。他在被罗意威(Loewe)任命为创意总监后还保留着自己的同名品牌。 31 岁的吴季刚(Jason Wu)也有自已的品牌，他在 2013 年 6 月被任命为雨果博斯(Hugo Boss) 的女装创意总监；同样拥有自己品牌的 33 岁的扎克博森(Zac Posen)在今年夏天刚出任了 布鲁克斯兄弟(Brooks Brothers)女装的创意总监；39 岁的杰瑞米斯科特(Jeremy Scott)在去 年加入了莫斯奇诺(Moschino)，并推出了自己的品牌。 Meanwhile, of the first generation to embark on the two houses/
16、one designer model Michael Kors, who from 1997-2004 was also creative director of Cline; Narciso Rodriguez, who worked at his own line and Loewe from 1997-2001; Tom Ford, who had both Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent from 2000-2004; not to mention Mr. Galliano and Mr. Jacobs only Karl Lagerfeld is still doing double duty (or triple: at Chanel, Fendi and his own brand).
