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1、Snowsports Construction StandardsFall 2007 and Forward滑雪衣做工標準（07年秋開始）,Please refer to each style for any constructions deviating from the standards. 做工與標準不符的請按每款的具體要求處理,If you have any questions, contact Ligia Ferrey (ligia_), Kassie Maurer (kassie_) or Linda Chung (linda_),Date Originated: Septembe
2、r, 2005,2020/7/26,1,Table of Contents,2020/7/26,2,Stitching Standards: 車線說明 Top stitching to be 12 SPI 車線請用12 SPI車線 Use Poly Core Thread for garment construction and topstitching unless otherwise indicated.除非特殊說明,衣服縫製請都用POLY 包芯線. Overlock, Flat Lock and Cover stitch to be 12 SPI 拷克，平車及三本車都用 12SPI車線
3、Pre-Stitch and Stay stitch to be 9-11 SPI, depending on the usage. 根據用途,起針和回針用 9-11 SPI All lining fabric (that can potentially fray) should have its interior raw edges joined with 4 thread safety stitch.所有有可能磨破的裡布,布邊都要用4線拷 克拷過 Cover stitch to be used on stretch mesh fabric seams. 有彈力的網布縫份用三本車 All s
4、tretchy fabrics should use 4 thread safety for all join seams. (Cannot use lockstitch as it will cause popping and open seam.)所有有彈性布的拼合縫份都要用4線拷克. Chain-stitch is not used unless otherwise specified on Construction Details page.沒有特殊說明,做工細則裡的則不使用鎖鏈車. Back tack stitching shall be 3 stitches long for se
5、curity.為安全考慮，回針至少要有3針長. All thread color to be DTM for all color blocking panels unless otherwise specified.如沒有特殊說明，所有剪接用線應為同布色 For non-Gore products use 22mm seam tape for all critical seams. Use 17mm seam tape for all non-critical seams, unless otherwise stated. 除非特殊說明,款式的關鍵部位剪接線,使用22mm寬的防水貼條,非關鍵部
6、位剪接線,使用17mm寬的防水貼條 Vivian remarks-關鍵部位:上衣:前中/外長/領圍 長褲:前後擋/內外長 非關鍵部位:袖攏及其他剪接線 開發時先按客人規定如有不能貼合或是寬度貼上去有問題要先與客人聯繫. Logo 部分的防水貼條,需提供廠商加寬後長x寬的尺寸,訂購整塊四周圓角的防水貼條,直接熱壓上Logo Seam Seal Taping should be centered over seam stitching. Cross over seams should be re-pressed. 防水貼條要貼在縫份中間，十字重疊處要用機器重複加溫加壓. Bartack use T
7、ex 27 Perma Spun Thread, 42 SPIs, 3/8” length. 打結用Tex 27 Perma 的車線，42SPI,打結長3/8”.,Sewing Specifications 縫紉說明,2020/7/26,3,Tacking Standards: 固定標準 For Gore-tex Shell jackets: All linings to be tacked onto shell by Z-liner. Gore-tex款式,所有裡布要用Z-liner固定在表布上 Vivian remarks-Z-liner:一種特殊的布種,可用防水膠袋直接貼上去 For N
8、on-Gore Shell jackets: All linings to be swag tacked onto shell by stripes of self shell fabric. 非Gore-tex要使用本布固定表裡布 The tacking points are: 表裡固定點位置 CB Neck on Taped jackets. Entire neck seam on non-taping garments. 有防水貼條的衣服只需固定于后中領圍，沒有防水貼條的衣服固 定于全部領圍線 High point shoulders 領肩點 Sleeve Caps. (No need
9、for raglan sleeve) 袖肩點（拉格蘭袖不用） Under armholes 袖籠底端 Elbows. (Depending on design)肘部（按不同設計而定） Lower forearm seam 6 8” from cuff edge. (Depending on design) 前臂下端距袖口剪接6 8” （按不同設計而定） 5 7” from hood brim edge at hood run seam. (Depending on design) 帽剪接在距帽沿5 7” 處（按不同設計而定） At waist points for styles with fr
10、ee hanging lining. 自由懸垂的裡布固定在腰剪接處 All pocket bags should be sewn, tacked, or swag tacked their upper or functional corners. 所有口袋都需縫製或者固定在其上端或角落處 Vivian remarks-固定布條須直接與剪接線車合一起,再貼膠條.(固定布條處不需測水壓.) 布料薄:固定布條對折. 布料厚:固定布條單層即可不須對折.,Sewing Specifications 縫紉細則,帽沿往帽中縫份57“處,領肩點,肩點,腋下點,肘點(請根據設計),下臂點(請根據設計),腰頭,整
11、個後領圍線,2020/7/26,4,Sewing Specifications縫紉細則,Bartacking Standards:打結標準 All pocket openings, flaps, vents and zipper ends shall have bartacks. 所有口袋開口，擋風片，蓋排，透氣孔以及拉鏈兩端都要打結 When bartacking an exposed PU zipper, the bartack should be hidden under die cut shell. 當拉鍊為露齒PU拉鏈時，打結需隱藏在大身布下（如圖一） Keep bartack ex
12、posed when infusion is around the perimeter of the zipper. Be sure to place the bartack as close to the bottom of zipper as possible. 當拉鏈周邊有粘合膠時，打結要外露，而且要盡量靠近拉鏈底端（如圖二） The bartack dimension to be W 1/16” x L 3/8”. The length can be extended to ” whenever necessary. 3 pass bartack for weak fabrics. 打
13、結尺寸W*H: 1/16” x 3/8”, 需要的時候長度可以加長到”，防水拉鍊尾端用平車來回車3次加固.,圖一,圖二,隱藏打結用在外露式拉鍊,外露式打結用在拉鏈四周有貼裝飾膠 Vivian remarks-客人建議用平車來回加固3次比打結好),2020/7/26,5,General Features 總體做工要求,Common Features:總體做工要求 All eyelets and grommets should be reinforced by shell fabric or washer, whichever most suitable. 合適的時候，所有G眼需用本布或塑膠墊片加
14、強.(eyelet & gromment都是指G眼) Grommet size 4.2 mm with single 2.5 mm shockcord. 4.2mm(應是指內徑)的G眼使用2.5mm的繩. Grommet size 5.6 mm with single 3 mm shockcord or with double 2.5 mm shockcords. 5.6mm的G眼使用3mm的繩. 或雙倍2.5mm 寬的繩.(shochcords =繩的統稱) If applicable, use appropriate sized washer with metal snaps for sa
15、tisfactory performance. 為運動時的安全考慮,如果可行的話把大小合適的金屬四合釦和塑膠墊片一起使用. All buttonholes should be reinforced by interlining. 所有鎖眼要用襯加強. All grossgrain tapes, drawcords, webbing and elastics should have heat cut ends. 所有綢緞類織帶和鬆緊帶都要用熱切. All shockcord tunnels should be lined with a taffeta tunnel to allow the sh
16、ockcord to run smoothly. See sketch on page 8. 有shockcord的繩孔道都需多家層taffeta在孔道內,讓使使用者在使用繩子時能控制自如.(可參考第8頁) Vivian remarks-客人表示在開發時可先不加taffeta,等客人comments再說. All shockcords settings shall be looped and wrapped by ” taffeta extension and only the fabric will be attached with stitch or bartack. (For hood, and hem drawcord). See sketch on page 8.所有Shockcord繩孔道,在壓線或打結後完成寬均為1/2“(在帽子及下擺也是)(可參考第8頁) Cordlocks shall be tied down with grossgrain ribbon and bartacked, unless otherwis
